Asphalt Shingles: How a Shingle Roof Goes On
18 step by step guides
Asphalt shingles cover most of the houses in the Fraser Valley, and a good shingle roof is a matter of getting small things right a few thousand times. Straight courses, nails in the nailing zone, starter strip at the right overhang, offsets that never line up: none of it is difficult on its own, and all of it has to be correct for the roof to shed water and hold up in a windstorm.
The work starts on the ground. Measuring the roof and ordering shingles and accessories decide what arrives on the driveway. On the roof, the sequence is starter strip, chalk lines, then laying the courses with the correct nailing pattern, and finally hip and ridge cap.
Then come the conditions that change the method: low and steep pitches, cold and hot weather, dormers, hips, tie-ins to an existing roof and older 3-tab shingles. Each guide gives the common values and says to confirm the details on the manufacturer's installation instructions, which govern every product.
Asphalt Shingles Guides
- Guide 1How to Measure a Roof and Calculate SquaresOne roofing square is 100 square feet of roof surface. To find it, measure the footprint of each roof plane, multiply by the pitch factor (1.118 at 6/12, 1.202 at 8/12) to get the true sloped area, add the planes together, then add 10 to 15 percent for waste. Divide the total by 100. Shingles are ordered at 3 bundles per square for most laminated products.Intermediate1 to 2 hours
- Guide 2How to Order Shingles and AccessoriesStart from your square count with waste added. Field shingles are usually 3 bundles per square. Then order starter by the linear foot of eave and rake, cap by the linear foot of hips and ridges, underlayment by coverage per roll, about 1-1/2 to 2 pounds of roofing nails per square, and vents by the attic ventilation calculation. Ask the supplier for rooftop delivery and confirm colour and lot numbers.Intermediate1 to 2 hours
- Guide 3How to Load and Stage Shingle Bundles on a RoofLoad bundles in small stacks spread across several rafters or trusses, near the ridge and over bearing walls where possible. A square of laminated shingles weighs roughly 200 to 250 pounds, so keep stacks small. Lay bundles flat with the long edge parallel to the ridge, or straddle them over the ridge on steeper roofs, and block them so they cannot slide.Advanced1 to 3 hours
- Guide 4How to Install Starter Strip ShinglesStarter strip goes along the eaves first, with its adhesive strip at the eave edge, overhanging the drip edge by about 1/4 to 3/4 inch. It is nailed 2 to 3 inches up from the edge, with nails clear of the first course's sealant line. Rake starter follows up the gable ends. Confirm overhang and nail spacing on the manufacturer's instructions.Advanced1 to 3 hours
- Guide 5How to Snap Chalk Lines for Shingle CoursesSnap a horizontal line for the first course, then more horizontal lines up the roof every 4 to 6 courses, spaced at the shingle exposure (about 5-5/8 inches for laminated shingles). Add vertical bond lines to keep the offset pattern straight. Do not follow a crooked eave; measure from the ridge and adjust the exposure slightly across many courses to land courses on the ridge.Intermediate30 minutes to 1 hour per slope
- Guide 6Shingle Nailing: Placement, Count and DepthNail in the marked nailing zone, where the shingle is doubled, not above it or in the exposed tab. Use 4 nails per shingle as standard and 6 on steep roofs or in high wind, per the manufacturer. Use galvanized roofing nails at least 1-1/4 inch long that penetrate 3/4 inch into the deck or through it. Drive them flush and straight, never proud or crushing the shingle.IntermediatePart of every shingle job
- Guide 7How to Lay Shingle Courses and OffsetsLay the first full course over the starter, flush with the rake, then build each course up the roof at the printed exposure (about 5-5/8 inches for laminated shingles), offsetting joints at least 4 to 6 inches from the course below so no joint lines up within two courses. Blend bundles, keep to the chalk lines, nail in the zone, and trim at the rake after the course is down.Advanced1 to 2 days for an average roof
- Guide 8How to Cut Asphalt Shingles CleanlyCut asphalt shingles with a hook blade utility knife, face down so the blade cuts the back of the shingle and the granules do not dull it. Mark the line with a straightedge or chalk, score through the mat, and snap or finish the cut. Cut warm shingles easily, cold ones carefully. Pull the knife toward a safe line, never toward your leg.BeginnerPart of every shingle job
- Guide 9How to Shingle a Hip RoofOn a hip roof, snap a line along each hip, then shingle the slopes from the eave up in matching courses so the lines meet at the hip at the same height. Run shingles past the hip line, keep nails at least 1 to 2 inches clear of it, then trim to the line and cover the joint with hip cap. Offset joints as usual and stay on your chalk lines.Advanced1 to 3 days
- Guide 10How to Install Hip and Ridge Cap ShinglesInstall manufactured hip and ridge cap starting at the bottom of each hip and working up, then across each ridge starting from the end away from the prevailing wind so the exposed edges face away from it. Each cap is folded over the peak, exposed about 5 to 5-5/8 inches, and nailed with two nails placed 5/8 to 1 inch in from each edge and about 1 inch above the exposure line. The last cap is cut and cemented.Advanced2 to 6 hours
- Guide 11How to Shingle Around a DormerAround a dormer, install ice and water shield on the deck and up the walls, flash the front wall with apron flashing, step flash each cheek wall as the courses rise, and form a valley where the dormer roof meets the main roof. Run the main roof courses across the width of the dormer on both sides, so they meet the dormer at the same height and keep the same bond lines.Advanced4 to 10 hours per dormer
- Guide 12How to Shingle a Low-Slope Roof (2/12 to 4/12)Asphalt shingles are normally installed on slopes of 4/12 and steeper. Between 2/12 and 4/12 they can be used only with added protection: full coverage self-adhered ice and water shield, or a double layer of underlayment with cemented laps, as the manufacturer and code require. Below 2/12 shingles are the wrong roof: use a low-slope membrane system instead. Confirm the current code and product instructions.Advanced1 to 3 days
- Guide 13How to Shingle a Steep RoofOn roofs of 8/12 and steeper, work from roof jacks and planks, stay tied off to properly installed anchors, and keep materials blocked or hoisted in small amounts. Fasten with 4 nails as standard and 6 nails plus hand-applied roof cement on very steep slopes, commonly at or above 21/12, per the manufacturer. Move and cut shingles with extra care, and use a lifeline on every steep slope.Professional2 to 5 days
- Guide 14How to Shingle in Cold WeatherIn cold weather shingles crack when bent and the factory sealant strips will not bond until the sun warms them, so hand seal tabs with asphalt roof cement, especially at eaves, rakes and ridges. Keep bundles warm until used, cut and bend slowly, raise nailer pressure as needed and test on scrap. Below freezing or with frost on the deck, wait.AdvancedAdds 10 to 30 percent to the job
- Guide 15How to Shingle in Hot WeatherIn hot weather a dark roof surface can reach 70 degrees C or more, softening asphalt so it scuffs and loses granules underfoot. Start early and finish before peak heat, keep bundles in the shade, minimise foot traffic on laid shingles, use soft-soled boots and protect the finished field. Give workers water, shade and regular breaks, and stop when heat stress becomes a risk.AdvancedVaries with heat
- Guide 16How to Tie New Shingles Into an Existing RoofTo tie new shingles into an existing roof, lift the old course above the tie line with a flat bar, slide the new shingles under it, and nail below the old course so nails are covered. Match the old exposure by measuring it first, weave the joint over two or three courses, and choose a natural break such as a ridge, valley or wall where possible. Seal lifted tabs afterward.Advanced3 to 8 hours per tie line
- Guide 17How to Install 3-Tab ShinglesA 3-tab shingle is a flat strip of about 12 by 36 inches with three tabs separated by slots and an exposure of 5 inches. Start with a full shingle over a cut-down starter, then offset each course 6 inches so slots never line up for at least five courses, keeping tabs aligned to chalk lines. Nail 4 per shingle just above the slots, and confirm details on the wrapper.Advanced1 to 2 days for an average roof
- Guide 18How to Finish Shingles at the Rake EdgeFinish the rake with drip edge over the underlayment, rake starter strip overhanging the edge by about 1/4 to 3/4 inch, and field shingles run past the edge and trimmed to a chalk line so they overhang by the same amount. Keep nails at least 1 inch (and usually 2 inches) in from the cut end, and seal the ends with roof cement, particularly near the eaves and ridge.Advanced2 to 6 hours
Also on this site
Asphalt Shingles: Common Questions
How long does an asphalt shingle roof last in BC?
Most asphalt shingle roofs in the Fraser Valley last about 20 to 30 years, depending on the product, ventilation, shade, moss and how well the roof was installed. Roofs under heavy tree cover and north slopes that stay wet tend to age faster than sun-exposed slopes.
What is a roofing square?
A roofing square is 100 square feet of roof surface. Shingles are ordered by the square, and most laminated shingles come in 3 bundles per square. Because it measures the sloped surface, a steep roof has more squares than the house footprint underneath it.
Can you install shingles in winter?
Yes, with care. Cold shingles are stiff and can crack, and the sealant strips will not bond until the sun warms them, so the shingles may need to be hand sealed. Calm, dry days above freezing are best. The cold weather guide covers the details.
What is the minimum slope for asphalt shingles?
Standard shingle installation is used on roofs of 4/12 and steeper. Between 2/12 and 4/12 shingles can be used only with extra waterproofing, such as full coverage ice and water shield or double underlayment. Below 2/12 a different roofing system is required. Always confirm the current code and the product instructions.
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