How to Shingle in Cold Weather Without Cracking or Unsealed Shingles
Cold shingles are stiff, cold sealant is dead, and cold nailers behave differently. Adjust all three or wait for a better day.
- Advanced
- Adds 10 to 30 percent to the job
- Updated
The short answer
In cold weather shingles crack when bent and the factory sealant strips will not bond until the sun warms them, so hand seal tabs with asphalt roof cement, especially at eaves, rakes and ridges. Keep bundles warm until used, cut and bend slowly, raise nailer pressure as needed and test on scrap. Below freezing or with frost on the deck, wait.
Asphalt shingles are a temperature-sensitive product. They are designed to be flexible and to bond to one another when warmed by the sun, which is why they go on easily in spring and summer. In a Fraser Valley winter, with daytime highs often between 2 and 8 degrees C and damp, overcast weeks, the shingles turn stiff and the sealant strips sit unbonded for days or weeks.
That does not mean roofing stops. Emergency repairs, dried-in roofs and jobs that cannot wait all need shingles in the cold. But it does mean the method changes. Hand sealing, warm storage and slower handling turn a problem into a manageable job. The work that cannot be fixed later is the sealing at the eaves, rakes and ridge, where wind gets in.
This guide covers the cold-weather adjustments. The general process is in how to lay shingle courses and offsets. For the opposite problem, see how to shingle in hot weather.
Tools
- Caulking gun for roof cement
- Roofing coil nailer and compressor
- Hook blade utility knife
- Heated storage, such as a garage or heated truck
- Tarps
- Gloves rated for cold
- Fall arrest harness and anchor
Materials
- Asphalt roof cement in cartridges or a can, cold-weather grade
- Laminated asphalt shingles, kept warm
- Extra roofing nails
- Breathable tarps
Safety first
- Frost, ice and dew on a roof are slippery. Do not start until the deck is dry, and stay off frosted underlayment.
- Cold hands drop tools and slip on knives. Take warm-up breaks and use cut resistant gloves that still give you feel.
- Low sun, short days and wind chill shorten the working window. Plan to be off the roof before dark, and stay tied off.
Step by Step
Step 1: Decide whether to work at all
Manufacturers generally do not set a single temperature, but most advise extra care below about 5 to 10 degrees C and recommend against installing in freezing weather unless special steps are taken. Check the wrapper. A dry deck matters more than the number: frost and ice under the underlayment stop it lying flat and make the roof unsafe.
Look at the forecast for the next few days. A roof shingled on a mild afternoon before a storm, with no sealing, is at risk from the first gust.
Step 2: Store shingles warm
Cold shingles are stiff, break when bent and crack when cut. A bundle stored overnight in a heated garage or a warm truck is far easier to work than one left on the driveway. Keep them flat and dry.
On the roof, cover bundles with a tarp to keep frost and dew off, and do not leave them in shade where the temperature is lowest.
Step 3: Handle and cut slowly
Do not fold a cold shingle. Lift it by the edge and lay it down flat. Score cuts with a fresh blade in two passes and support the shingle so it does not snap. See how to cut asphalt shingles cleanly.
Hip and ridge caps are the worst: they fold sharply and crack along the fold. Bend them only when warm, and see how to install hip and ridge cap shingles.
Step 4: Adjust the nailer pressure and test on scrap
Cold shingles are harder, so nails may sit proud at pressures that set them flush in summer. Cold air also lowers the pressure in the hose and can make a compressor behave differently. Adjust in small steps and check heads after every few shingles. See how to set up an air compressor.
Watch for overdriving as well: brittle mats cut more easily. The aim is flush heads. See shingle nailing: placement, count and depth.
Step 5: Hand seal the tabs
In cold weather the factory sealant strip may not bond for weeks, and until it does the tabs can lift in wind. Lift the tab, apply a dab of cement about the size of a quarter, and press the tab down. On most laminated shingles that is 2 to 4 dabs per shingle, as shown on the wrapper.
Prioritise the eaves, rakes, hips and ridge, where wind is worst. On a whole roof, hand sealing every shingle is slow and is often done only at the edges and on the steepest slopes. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, since warranties may depend on it.
Watch out: Too much cement causes blisters and staining on the shingle face. Use dabs, not lines or blobs.
Step 6: Seal the finished roof and check it later
If the roof will not see sun for days, tab lift is the most likely problem. On the first warm, bright day, walk the roof (or look from a ladder) and press any loose tabs down, adding cement where needed.
If a tab has lifted and creased, replace it. See how to reseal lifted shingles.
What Cold Does to Shingles
Asphalt softens with heat and stiffens with cold. In the cold, the shingle mat loses flexibility and cracks when bent at the tab or the cap. The sealant strip, which is a thermally activated adhesive, will not flow and bond until the shingle surface warms in the sun, which may not happen in weeks of overcast weather. The roof looks finished but is held by nails alone.
Fraser Valley Notes
In the Fraser Valley, the challenge is less deep cold than damp, short days and dull skies. Shingles can stay unsealed from November to March on a north slope. Outflow winds and winter storms test every unsealed edge. Hand seal edges, plan for the first storm, and avoid roofing in freezing weather at Hope and higher elevations, where frost can linger through the day.
Common Mistakes
- Trusting the factory sealant. It will not bond in cold or dull weather, and the tabs can lift in the first wind.
- Shingling over frost or ice. The underlayment will not lie flat, and the roof is a slip hazard.
- Bending cold caps. They crack along the fold.
- Using summer nailer pressure. Nails sit proud or overdrive as the shingles and air change.
- Too much cement. Blobs cause blisters and stains, and do not seal better than dabs.
- Never checking later. Unsealed tabs found after a storm are a failed roof.
When to Call a Professional
If a roof has to be done in winter, a roofer with cold-weather experience knows which details to hand seal, how to warm the material, and when to stop. A poorly sealed roof may also affect the wind warranty.
If shingles on your roof have lifted or blown off after a winter install, have it looked at soon. Water gets under lifted tabs quickly.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.
How to Shingle in Cold Weather: Questions
How cold is too cold to install shingles?
There is no single number, but most manufacturers advise extra care below about 5 to 10 degrees C and do not recommend installing at or below freezing without precautions. The deck must be dry and free of frost, and the shingles must not crack when bent. Check the installation instructions for the product.
Do shingles seal in cold weather?
Usually not until the sun warms them. The factory sealant strip is heat-activated and may stay unbonded for weeks in cold or overcast conditions. Until then the shingles are held by nails alone, so in cold weather hand seal the tabs with asphalt roof cement, especially at the eaves, rakes and ridge.
How do you hand seal shingles?
Lift the tab and put a dab of asphalt roof cement about the size of a quarter under it, at the locations shown on the wrapper, then press the tab down. Do not use more than needed, because large blobs cause blisters and staining. Seal the eaves, rakes, hips and ridge first.
Why are my shingles cracking when I install them?
Cold makes shingles stiff, so they crack when bent or cut. Keep bundles warm until they are needed, handle them flat, bend caps slowly and only when warm, and score cuts in two passes. If shingles keep cracking, the temperature is too low for the job, and waiting for a warmer day is the answer.
Do I need to change my nail gun pressure in cold weather?
Often, yes. Cold shingles are harder and nails may sit proud at summer pressure, while brittle mats can be cut by overdriving. Test on scrap at the start of the day and again as temperatures change, adjusting in small steps until nail heads sit flush. Follow the tool manufacturer's pressure range.
Related Guides
All Asphalt Shingles guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
Want someone to look at your roof?
Kory & Johnny have roofed homes across the Fraser Valley since 2016. Free inspections, honest estimates, no pressure.
604-728-0146Text UsEmailServing Hope, Agassiz, Chilliwack, Rosedale, Abbotsford & the entire Fraser Valley