Shingle Nailing: Where to Nail, How Many Nails and How Deep
Most shingle blow-offs are nailing problems. Zone, count, length and depth decide whether a roof stays on.
- Intermediate
- Part of every shingle job
- Updated
The short answer
Nail in the marked nailing zone, where the shingle is doubled, not above it or in the exposed tab. Use 4 nails per shingle as standard and 6 on steep roofs or in high wind, per the manufacturer. Use galvanized roofing nails at least 1-1/4 inch long that penetrate 3/4 inch into the deck or through it. Drive them flush and straight, never proud or crushing the shingle.
An asphalt shingle is held to the roof by its nails and, when the sun has warmed them, by the sealant strip. In a storm the sealant may not be holding at all, because it has not sealed yet, or because dust, cold or age has weakened it. The nails do the work. That is why manufacturers spend so much of the installation instructions on nailing, and why wind warranties often depend on nailing details.
There are four things to get right: where the nail goes, how many, how long and how deep. Each one fails in its own way. A nail too high misses the double layer and lets the tab lift. A nail too low can be seen and can leak. A nail too short does not reach the deck, and a nail overdriven cuts the shingle.
This guide covers nail placement, count and depth for asphalt shingles. For laying the courses, see how to lay shingle courses and offsets. For setting up a nailer, see how to use a roofing coil nailer.
Tools
- Roofing coil nailer
- Air compressor with a regulator
- Roofing hammer for spot fixes
- Tape measure
- Shingle gauge
- Hook blade utility knife
Materials
- Galvanized roofing nails, 1-1/4 inch or longer
- Stainless or hot-dipped nails near the coast or for cedar roofs
- Scrap shingles for test shots
- Asphalt roof cement for covering exposed nail heads
Safety first
- Nail guns can double fire or ricochet off a knot. Keep fingers clear of the nose, and keep the gun pointed at the deck, not at a person.
- Hearing protection is needed around a compressor and a nailer all day.
- Stay tied off, and watch the air hose. A hose that catches a boot on a slope is a trip hazard.
Step by Step
Step 1: Find the nailing zone on the shingle
Laminated shingles have a nailing area, often marked with a line or a strip, which sits where the shingle is doubled. Nails here pass through the shingle and the headlap of the course below. Nails placed above that zone go through only one layer and can pull through. Nails placed below it go through the exposed part of the shingle.
On 3-tab shingles the nail line is just above the cutouts, usually about 5/8 inch above the top of the slots. Check the wrapper for the exact zone.
Step 2: Set the standard 4-nail pattern
The standard pattern for most shingles on most roofs is 4 nails: one near each end, about 1 inch in from the edge, and two more spread evenly across the shingle, commonly about 12 inches from each end. Each nail goes in the zone, and none should cross a shingle joint of the course below.
Keep the shingle straight and flat while you nail. A shingle held with a bend in it ends up with nails that lift a tab.
Step 3: Use 6 nails where the manufacturer or conditions require
Most manufacturers call for 6 nails on roofs at or above about 21/12 (60 degrees), and they offer higher wind ratings when 6 nails are used. Shingles on windy exposures, such as open sites and elevated ridges, often get 6 nails as well. The extra two nails are spaced evenly between the standard four, or as the wrapper shows.
In the Fraser Valley, outflow winds through the canyon and winter storms along the river can be strong enough to lift shingles on exposed sites. If the wind warranty is important, read the installation instructions before deciding the pattern.
Tip: Some roofers use 6 nails on the first few courses at the eave and rake, and on the last courses at the ridge, even where 4 is allowed.
Step 4: Choose the right nail length
A 1-1/4 inch nail is the usual choice for one layer of shingles on standard sheathing. With thicker decking, extra underlayment or an existing shingle layer, use a longer nail, commonly 1-1/2 inch or more. On thin sheathing, the nail should go through the thickness of the panel and show on the underside.
Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless nails. Plain steel and electroplated nails rust quickly in the Fraser Valley's damp climate, and a rusted nail shank breaks under a wet cold snap.
Step 5: Drive the nails flush and straight
A nail driven at an angle leaves the head half proud on one side. A crooked nail can cut the shingle, and a raised edge can cut through the shingle above it. Hold the gun flat, with the nose fully on the shingle, and fire one nail at a time.
After a few shingles, run your hand across the nail heads. They should be flush with no raised edge.
Step 6: Set the nailer pressure and test on scrap
Compressor pressure that sets a nail on a warm afternoon may overdrive it on a cold morning and underdrive it on a dense deck. Test on a scrap shingle laid on the same deck. The right pressure is often a range, for instance about 90 to 110 psi, but the tool's manual is the guide. See how to set up an air compressor.
Many nailers have a depth adjustment at the nose. Use it in small steps. Retest after each change.
Step 7: Fix over and under driven nails as you go
An overdriven nail has torn the mat and does not hold. Pull it, slip a small piece of shingle or a dab of cement over the hole if needed, and nail again a short distance away inside the zone. An underdriven nail lifts the shingle above it, and it will wear through the next shingle. Tap it flush, or pull and redo.
Do not leave a problem nail for later. Once the next course covers it, it is permanent. For popped nails on an older roof, see how to fix popped nails.
Watch out: A nail that misses the deck entirely is a hole. Watch for a nail that gives no resistance, and pull it.
Nailing Quick Reference
These are the common values. The wrapper and the installation instructions govern for every product.
- Standard: 4 nails per shingle, in the nailing zone.
- Steep roofs (about 21/12 and up) and high wind: 6 nails, per the manufacturer.
- Nail length: 1-1/4 inch minimum, longer for thick decking or overlays.
- Penetration: at least 3/4 inch into the deck, or through the sheathing.
- Nail type: hot-dipped galvanized or stainless, with a flat head about 3/8 inch in diameter.
Staples Versus Nails
Some staple guns are sold for roofing, but many manufacturers do not allow staples, and they pull out more easily than nails under wind load. Use nails unless the installation instructions and the local code specifically accept staples.
Common Mistakes
- Nailing above the nailing zone. The nail goes through a single layer and pulls through in wind. This is a leading cause of tab blow-off.
- High nailing on purpose to speed up. Nailing high so the next course covers it can void the wind warranty.
- Overdriven nails. They cut the mat, hold nothing, and sit in a hollow that collects water.
- Underdriven nails. They leave a bump that wears through the shingle above and leaks.
- Using nails that are too short. A nail that does not reach the deck holds nothing. Longer nails are needed with overlays and thick underlayment.
- Angled nails. The edge of the head cuts the shingle and the nail works loose.
When to Call a Professional
If the roof has lost shingles in wind, or shingles are lifting along the ridge and rake, the cause is likely nailing or sealing, and a roofer can tell which. If you see nail heads showing or shingles lifting on an older roof, see how to fix popped nails.
A warranty claim on wind damage will often ask how the shingles were nailed. Good nailing is something you have to get right when the shingles go on.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.
Shingle Nailing: Placement, Count and Depth: Questions
How many nails per shingle?
Most shingles take 4 nails each in a standard installation. On steep roofs, commonly above about 21/12, and in high-wind areas, manufacturers require 6 nails, and a 6 nail pattern is often needed to qualify for the higher wind rating. The wrapper states the required pattern, and the manufacturer's instructions govern.
Where do you nail asphalt shingles?
Nail in the marked nailing zone, where the shingle is doubled by the course below, which keeps the nails through two layers. On laminated shingles there is a printed nail line or strip. On 3-tab shingles, nail about 5/8 inch above the cutout slots. Nails placed above or below the zone reduce holding power.
What length nail for roofing shingles?
A 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nail is standard for a single layer of shingles on standard sheathing. The nail should penetrate at least 3/4 inch into the deck or go through it. Use longer nails, such as 1-1/2 inch, when there is a thick deck, extra underlayment or an old layer beneath.
Is it bad to overdrive roofing nails?
Yes. An overdriven nail cuts into the shingle mat and holds little. The shingle can pull over the head in wind. An underdriven nail is also a fault, because the raised head wears through the next shingle. Test the nailer on scrap, adjust the pressure and depth, and check the heads as you work.
Can you use a staple gun for shingles?
Most manufacturers prefer or require nails, because staples pull out more easily in wind and can rust or cut the mat. Some codes and warranties restrict staples. Check the installation instructions and the local code before using a stapler, and when in doubt, use nails.
Related Guides
All Asphalt Shingles guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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