How to Use a Roofing Coil Nailer: Loading, Depth, Trigger Mode and Safe Handling
Set the pressure, set the depth, test on scrap and use the sequential trigger. A nailer drives a nail a second, so one mistake is repeated a hundred times.
- Intermediate
- 15 minutes to set up, then working time
- Updated
The short answer
A roofing coil nailer drives wire-collated nails from a coil magazine using compressed air. Connect it to a regulated compressor, load a coil of the right nail length, set the depth so heads sit flush with the shingle surface, test on scrap, and use the sequential (single actuation) trigger for accuracy. Disconnect the air hose before loading, clearing jams or walking away.
A roofing coil nailer is a pneumatic tool that drives a full coil of wire-collated nails at a rate far beyond a hammer. Used properly it puts every nail in the same spot at the same depth, which matters for shingle performance. Nails driven too high or too low, angled, overdriven through the mat or left proud of the surface are a common source of blow-offs and leaks, see shingle nailing patterns.
The tool is also dangerous. Nail gun injuries are among the most common injuries in roofing, and most of them come from bump firing, carrying the gun with a hand on the trigger, or clearing a jam with the air still connected. This guide covers the setup and technique step by step. For the air supply, see how to set up an air compressor, and for trouble, see how to clear nail gun jams.
Tools
- Pneumatic roofing coil nailer
- Air compressor with a regulator
- Air hose with matching couplers
- Scrap shingle and scrap plywood for testing
- Safety glasses
- Hearing protection
Materials
- Roofing coil nails of the length the shingle manufacturer specifies
- Nailer oil, if the tool needs it
- Shingles or underlayment to fasten
Safety first
- Disconnect the air hose before loading, adjusting, clearing a jam or leaving the nailer unattended. A connected nailer is a loaded firearm.
- Never point the nailer at anyone, never carry it with your finger on the trigger and never hold it against your body when firing.
- Use the sequential trigger (single actuation) for roofing whenever you can. A contact or bump trigger fires whenever the nose touches the surface while the trigger is held, which causes accidental nails in hands and legs.
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. A nailer kicks nails and debris, and a compressor and nailer together are loud.
Step by Step
Step 1: Check the nailer and the nails
Look at the trigger, safety contact, magazine and depth adjuster. Nothing should be cracked, bent or sticking. The tool's label gives the nail length and diameter range. Shingle manufacturers usually call for a minimum nail length, commonly 1 inch to 1-1/4 inches for shingles over a standard deck, and longer where there is an overlay or extra layers of roofing. Confirm the requirement on the shingle wrapper.
Use only the collation and coil angle the tool was made for. Wire-collated coil nails from the wrong angle jam the magazine.
Step 2: Connect to a regulated air supply
The nailer label gives the operating range. Start at the lower end and increase in small steps. Too much pressure drives nails through the shingle, too little leaves heads proud. The regulator should be set at the compressor and checked at the tool, since long hoses lose pressure. See how to set up an air compressor.
Connect the hose with the tool pointed away from you, and listen for leaks at the coupler.
Watch out: Connect the hose only after the nails are loaded and the trigger is clear. If the trigger is held or the nose is pressed, a nail will fire on connection.
Step 3: Disconnect the air and load the coil
Hold the nailer pointing away from you. Open the magazine, lay the coil in with the nails feeding out the nose side, and pull the first nail into the feed channel. Place the nail into the firing slot and close the magazine latch. Some tools have a nail length adjuster. Set it to match.
Reconnect the air with the nose pointing at the roof deck, away from feet and hands.
Step 4: Set the depth and test on scrap
The depth adjuster changes how far the driver travels. A nail that is overdriven cuts into the shingle mat and can pull through in wind. A proud nail can cut the shingle above and leaves a bump. Adjust a click at a time and test again. Check again on the roof, because decking hardness varies and your pressure may need to change in cold weather when shingles are stiffer.
Always test on the same type of surface you are roofing, so the result matches real conditions.
Tip: After each change, feel the nail head with a fingertip. It should be flush, with the shingle slightly compressed but not cut.
Step 5: Choose the trigger mode and hold the nailer correctly
In sequential mode the nail fires only when the nose contact is pressed first and then the trigger is pulled, one nail per pull. A contact trip (bump) mode fires whenever the nose touches the surface with the trigger held down, so it is faster but accidental firing is common. Many tools let you switch with a selector. Nail gun safety bodies recommend sequential mode for work where accuracy matters, and most shingle work fits that description.
Keep your free hand well away from the nose and the nail line, and keep the nailer flat on the shingle. A nailer tilted on an edge sends the nail in at an angle.
Step 6: Place each nail in the nail zone
Most laminated shingles have a marked nail line. Nails placed above it miss the reinforced zone and let the shingle lift in wind, and nails placed low do not penetrate the underlying course. Four nails per shingle is the usual minimum, with six on steep roofs or high wind areas, but follow the wrapper. Keep the nailer perpendicular to the deck so the nail goes in straight.
Move with control and do not reach across your body or overhead. See how to lay shingle courses for the wider process.
Step 7: Carry it safely and move around the roof
Most nail gun injuries happen when the tool is carried with a finger on the trigger and the nose bumped into something. Hang the tool on a hook or set it on its back with the nose clear, not lying on a slope where it can slide. On a steep slope, hang it from a tool belt or a lanyard so it cannot fall.
Step 8: Shut down, disconnect and store
Release the air pressure by firing once without nails on a dummy surface or as the manual directs, then remove the coil so the nails are not bent in transit. A few drops of tool oil, if the nailer needs it, keep the o-rings working. See how to clear nail gun jams and maintain a nailer.
Sequential Versus Contact Trigger
A sequential (single actuation) trigger fires one nail per complete sequence of nose contact followed by a trigger pull. A contact (bump) trigger fires a nail each time the nose touches the surface while the trigger is held. Contact mode is quicker on repetitive jobs such as sheathing, but it can fire unintentionally if the gun bounces on recoil or brushes a hand or leg.
On a roof, where footing is poor, balance is imperfect and nails can ricochet off a knot into a hand, the sequential trigger is the safer choice. Many workers also find it gives a cleaner result because each nail is placed deliberately.
Cold Weather
Shingles are stiff in the cold and tend to crack or resist the nail. Condensation in the air line freezes and stops the tool. Use a water trap and an air line additive made for cold weather, see how to set up an air compressor, and check depth again once the tool has been outside for a while. See also shingling in cold weather.
Common Mistakes
- Loading with the air connected. A bump of the trigger can fire a nail into your hand.
- Carrying with a finger on the trigger and the air connected.
- Overdriven nails. High pressure punches through the shingle mat and lets wind lift the tab.
- Proud nails. Low pressure leaves heads sticking up, which cut the shingle above and leak.
- Nailing above the nail line. The nail misses the reinforced zone, so the shingle tears off in wind.
- Using bump mode on a slope. Recoil and poor footing lead to accidental double fires.
When to Call a Professional
If you have never used a pneumatic nailer, the first session should be supervised by someone with experience. Nail gun injuries are common and can be serious, with nails through hands, feet and legs. A qualified roofer also knows when the nail length, pressure and pattern need to change for the deck, the shingle or the wind rating.
If the tool leaks air, double fires, or jams repeatedly, stop using it and have it serviced rather than working around the fault.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.
How to Use a Roofing Coil Nailer: Questions
What is the difference between sequential and bump fire on a nail gun?
With a sequential trigger, the nose must be pressed to the surface and then the trigger pulled to fire each nail, which gives one nail per deliberate action. With a contact or bump trigger, the nailer fires each time the nose touches the surface while the trigger is held down. Bump is faster but causes more accidental discharges, so sequential is preferred on roofs.
What pressure should a roofing nailer be set to?
Most roofing coil nailers operate in the range of about 90 to 120 psi, but the tool's label gives the exact range. Set the regulator to the lowest pressure that seats the nail flush with the shingle, using the depth adjuster for fine tuning. Test on scrap, and recheck in cold or hot weather because the shingles behave differently.
How do you set the depth on a roofing nailer?
Fire a nail into scrap shingle over scrap plywood and check the head. It should sit flush with the shingle surface, slightly pressing the mat but not cutting it. Turn the depth adjuster a click at a time until the result is right. Overdriven nails cut the shingle, and proud nails leave heads that can cut the course above.
How many nails per shingle?
Four nails per shingle is the usual minimum for standard slopes, with six on steep roofs or in high wind areas, but the manufacturer's wrapper instructions govern. Nails must go in the marked nailing zone, straight and flush. Nails placed too high or too low void the wind rating and are a common cause of shingle blow-offs.
Is a roofing nailer dangerous?
Yes. Nail gun injuries to hands, feet and legs are common, and most come from bump firing, carrying the tool with a finger on the trigger, or clearing a jam while connected to air. Using a sequential trigger, disconnecting air before loading or clearing, and wearing eye and ear protection reduce the risk greatly.
Related Guides
All Roofing Tools guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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