How to Shingle a Hip Roof: Layout, Courses and Cutting to the Hip Line
Four slopes meeting at three or more hips. Keep the courses level across every plane and trim clean to the hip line.
- Advanced
- 1 to 3 days
- Updated
The short answer
On a hip roof, snap a line along each hip, then shingle the slopes from the eave up in matching courses so the lines meet at the hip at the same height. Run shingles past the hip line, keep nails at least 1 to 2 inches clear of it, then trim to the line and cover the joint with hip cap. Offset joints as usual and stay on your chalk lines.
A hip roof slopes down on all four sides. There are no gable ends, so there are no rakes, and instead the slopes meet along diagonal hip lines that run from the ridge to each corner. Hip roofs handle wind well, which is one reason they are common on exposed properties across the Fraser Valley, but they are slower to shingle than a simple gable because every course must be cut at both ends.
The challenge is keeping the courses aligned around the building. Since the eaves are level, the courses on adjacent slopes meet at the hip on the same line, and any drift on one slope shows at the hip as a step. The other challenge is the cutting: each shingle that meets a hip is trimmed, so hips produce a great deal of waste and dull many blades.
This guide covers the field shingles along the hips. The cap that covers them is in how to install hip and ridge cap shingles. Ordering enough for the waste is covered in how to measure a roof and calculate squares.
Tools
- Roofing coil nailer and compressor
- Hook blade utility knife
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Framing square
- Shingle gauge
- Roof jacks on steeper pitches
- Fall arrest harness and anchor
Materials
- Laminated asphalt shingles
- Starter strip
- Ice and water shield or underlayment for the hips
- Roofing nails, 1-1/4 inch galvanized
- Hip and ridge cap shingles
- Roof cement
Safety first
- Hips are the steepest diagonal on the roof, and a slide down a hip goes to the corner of the eave, where the drop is greatest. Tie off, always.
- Stay off a hip line once it is covered with loose shingle offcuts and granules. Both are slippery.
- Work with one foot on each slope, not standing on the hip line itself, where the footing is narrow.
Step by Step
Step 1: Install underlayment and protect the hips
Run the underlayment of each slope up and over the hip by at least 6 inches, then lay a strip of ice and water shield centred on the hip. Hips are a wind and rain exposure, and the membrane seals the nail holes from the cap.
Check that the underlayment is flat and tight at the hip, with no wrinkles that would show through the shingle.
Step 2: Snap a line along every hip
The hip line is the guide for trimming. Measure the hip at the eave and at the ridge, mark the centre, and snap the line. On a regular hip roof it runs diagonally from the corner of the eave to the point where the ridge meets the hip.
Check that the hip is straight. Sagging hips are common on older roofs, and the shingles should follow a straight line, not the framing.
Step 3: Start with level eave starter and the first course
Cut the starter to the hip line at the corner and keep it tight to the line. Then lay the first course of each slope, cutting the shingle at the hip. See how to install starter strip shingles.
Horizontal chalk lines should run continuously around the building, since all eaves are at the same height. See how to snap chalk lines for shingle courses.
Step 4: Work both slopes up in step
Keeping slopes at the same stage means courses meet at the hip at the same height, and any drift shows early. A roofer working one slope all the way to the ridge before starting the next risks finding that the two sets of courses do not match at the hip.
Follow the horizontal chalk lines across the hip. If a course is off by an eighth of an inch on one slope, correct it gradually on the next few courses.
Step 5: Run shingles past the hip line and keep nails clear
Letting shingles run long past the line means you trim to the line rather than trying to cut each one to size first. Nails near the hip should be placed at least 1 to 2 inches from the hip line, as the cap will be nailed there, and a field nail in the same spot leaves a hole under the cap.
Offsets still apply. A course ending at the hip can start the next course on the other side, but keep joints offset by the manufacturer's minimum.
Step 6: Trim to the hip line
Trimming after nailing, along a straight line, gives a cleaner hip than cutting each shingle individually. Cut through only the shingle, keeping the blade away from the underlayment, and set the blade depth carefully. See how to cut asphalt shingles cleanly.
Sweep the cut edge clear of granules and debris. The cap shingles will lie on it, and loose granules under them prevent the sealant from bonding.
Watch out: Do not leave a wide gap at the hip. Shingle edges should meet within about 1/2 inch of the line so the cap fully covers the joint.
Step 7: Finish with the cap
Hips are capped from the bottom up, and ridges follow. The cap directions, exposure and nailing are in how to install hip and ridge cap shingles.
Check each hip from the ground for straightness, and fix any kinks before the cap goes over them.
Where the Hip Meets the Eave
The bottom of a hip is where the eave starter from two slopes meets at a corner. Trim each starter tight to the hip line, leaving no gap, so the first course has a continuous base. A gap here lets wind in at the most exposed point of the roof. If the eave has a gutter apron or fascia cover, the corner detail comes from that: see how to install a gutter apron.
Where the Hip Meets a Valley or a Wall
Complex roofs have hips that run into valleys, walls or dormers. Each one is a detail of its own. Keep the courses continuous through them, and use the same chalk lines on every plane. See roof valley types for how valleys are laid out, and how to shingle around a dormer for the dormer case.
Common Mistakes
- Working one slope to the ridge before starting the next. Courses fail to match at the hip and show as a step.
- Nailing in the hip zone. Field nails under the cap leave holes and compete with the cap nails.
- Following a crooked hip. A sagging hip should not set the shingle line. Snap a straight line and trim to it.
- Leaving gaps at the hip. Wide gaps let water under the cap, and the cap cannot cover the joint evenly.
- Ignoring waste. Hips produce a lot of cutoffs. Order enough for them.
- Skipping the membrane over the hip. The hip is where the cap nails go in, and the membrane seals them.
When to Call a Professional
A simple four-sided hip roof is within reach of an experienced DIYer, but a cut-up roof with multiple hips, valleys and changes of pitch is slow, wasteful and unforgiving. Steep hips are also dangerous, and a fall at a hip goes to the corner.
If the hips sag, have a roofer or a carpenter look at the framing first. A crooked hip produces a crooked cap and cannot be hidden by shingles.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.
How to Shingle a Hip Roof: Questions
How do you shingle a hip roof?
Snap a chalk line along each hip, then shingle the slopes from the eave up in matching courses so the courses meet at the hip at the same height. Run shingles past the hip line, keep nails clear of it, trim to the line, and cover the joint with hip cap shingles starting at the eave.
Do you shingle a hip roof from the bottom or the top?
Field shingles are laid from the eave up, as on any roof. Cap shingles on the hips are also installed from the bottom up, and the ridge cap follows. Working upward lets each shingle lap over the one below, so water runs over every joint and not into it.
How much waste is there on a hip roof?
Hip roofs typically have 12 to 20 percent waste, more than a simple gable, because every course is trimmed at each hip. A roof with several hips and valleys needs the higher end. Some of the offcuts can start the next course, but many are too small to use.
How far from the hip should nails be?
Keep field nails at least 1 to 2 inches away from the hip line, so they stay clear of the area where the cap shingles are nailed. A field nail in that spot leaves a hole under the cap, and the two sets of nails can crack the shingle. Confirm the distance on the shingle instructions.
Should hips have membrane under the shingles?
It is good practice to put a strip of self-adhered membrane, such as ice and water shield, along the hips, because the cap nails go through the hip and could leak. Some manufacturers require underlayment over the hip and ridge. Check the installation instructions for the shingle you are using.
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This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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