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How to Load and Stage Shingle Bundles on a Roof Without Overloading It

Spread the weight, keep the bundles from sliding, and never stack a tonne of shingles on one truss.

  • Advanced
  • 1 to 3 hours
  • Updated

The short answer

Load bundles in small stacks spread across several rafters or trusses, near the ridge and over bearing walls where possible. A square of laminated shingles weighs roughly 200 to 250 pounds, so keep stacks small. Lay bundles flat with the long edge parallel to the ridge, or straddle them over the ridge on steeper roofs, and block them so they cannot slide.

Shingles are heavy, and a roof is not built to carry them stacked in one place. A square of laminated shingles weighs roughly 200 to 250 pounds, and a roof of 25 squares carries more than 5,000 pounds of material. Put several squares in one spot and you have put a concentrated load on a few rafters or trusses, which can crack a truss chord, sag the deck or start a bundle sliding down the slope.

Staging is a short job, but it is the one where people get hurt and roofs get damaged. The goal is to put the shingles where the crew will use them, in stacks the framing can carry, in a way that stops them sliding. On a typical day that means loading from the delivery truck by boom or conveyor, or by a ladder hoist, then moving bundles by hand into position.

This guide covers staging on an open, dry roof. For steep roofs, where bundles need jacks and planks to stay put, see how to shingle a steep roof.

Tools

  • Ladder hoist or conveyor, where used
  • Roof jacks and planks for steep slopes
  • Roofing hammer
  • Utility knife
  • Breathable tarps
  • Fall arrest harness, lanyard and anchor

Materials

  • Shingle bundles
  • Scrap lumber blocks or cleats
  • Roofing nails for temporary cleats
  • Tarps to cover staged bundles

Safety first

  • Bundles weigh roughly 60 to 80 pounds each. Lift with your legs, and never carry one across a steep slope without a free hand for the ladder or the roof.
  • WorkSafeBC requires fall protection where a fall could be 3 metres (about 10 feet) or more. Stay tied off while placing bundles, especially near the eave and rake edges.
  • A sliding bundle can knock someone off a roof or injure a person below. Keep the area under the roof clear and never stage bundles above a door or walkway.

Step by Step

  1. Step 1: Check the roof and the weather before loading

    Loading onto a wet roof, or frost, is asking for a slide. Bundles also get damp, and wet bundles stick together. Look at the ceiling and attic for old sagging, cracked trusses or previous repairs, and keep loading away from weak areas.

    If rain is forecast, do not load more than you will lay that day. Tarp what is left overnight with a breathable tarp, and tie it down against wind.

  2. Step 2: Decide where each stack should go

    Bundles closest to the ridge give the crew a short downhill carry, and weight near the ridge sits over the load paths of most roof framing. Avoid the middle of long rafter spans, where the deck is most likely to deflect.

    Lay out one stack for every 10 to 15 feet of ridge. Keep each stack to 3 to 6 bundles. Spreading 20 bundles over six spots is the point. Never stack a whole pallet in one place.

  3. Step 3: Load from the delivery, evenly

    Tell the delivery driver exactly which slope to load, the number of bundles per spot and where the ridge is. A driver who sets a whole pallet in one place cannot be undone without unloading by hand.

    If you load by hand with a ladder hoist, stack bundles on the hoist carrier in layers of 3 or 4, not as high as it will go. Keep the carrier level as it climbs and do not use it to lift people.

  4. Step 4: Lay bundles flat, parallel to the ridge

    A bundle laid along the slope puts its whole weight on one or two rafters and is more likely to slide. A bundle laid across the slope spreads over several. Put the wrapper side up and keep bundles from folding at the ends.

    On a new deck the plywood or OSB is bare and slippery. A few scraps of underlayment under the stacks help, and so does starting with bundles on the slope that will be shingled last.

  5. Step 5: Straddle bundles over the ridge on steeper slopes

    A bundle laid across the ridge is held by its own weight on both slopes. It keeps the load balanced and stops it walking down. This works only when the ridge is clear and the bundles will not crack, so it is not suited to cold weather, when shingles stiffen.

    Place one bundle every few feet along the ridge. Do not let them pile up, and keep them clear of any ridge vent opening you are working around.

    Tip: Straddle only with the wrapper intact. A torn wrapper lets the shingles fan out and slide.

  6. Step 6: Block the bundles so they cannot slide

    Anything above about 5/12 needs some form of positive stop. A 2 by 4 cleat nailed through the underlayment into the deck, below the stack, will hold a stack of bundles. On a steeper roof, use roof jacks and a plank as both a work platform and a shelf for bundles.

    Remove the cleats when the roof is shingled, and fill the nail holes properly with cement and shingle. A cleat left in place is a leak.

    Watch out: Never rely on friction. Wet underlayment and dew are slippery, and a bundle that starts to slide will pick up speed in seconds.

  7. Step 7: Keep a clear walkway and tie off

    A walkway wide enough to carry a bundle without stepping over another is a safety measure. Stage away from the eave and rake edges, where a slipped bundle goes straight off the roof.

    Use a fall arrest system, anchored properly. See how to install a roof anchor and how to fit a fall arrest harness.

  8. Step 8: Cover and restage as you work

    As you work up the slope, leave bundles behind the working line, not below it. Every time you move a stack, return it to the same spread pattern instead of grouping the last few bundles on one spot.

    At the end of the day, return any loose bundles to the ridge, strap or cleat them, and tarp them against rain and dew.

Weight Reference

These are planning numbers only, since every product differs. Use the bundle wrapper for the actual weight.

  • One bundle of laminated shingles: about 60 to 80 pounds.
  • One square (3 bundles): roughly 200 to 250 pounds.
  • A 6 bundle stack: 400 to 500 pounds in one spot, which is about the most a single stack should hold.
  • A full pallet of 42 bundles: about 2,800 to 3,300 pounds. It should never sit on a roof in one piece.

Tear-Off Weight Matters Too

When a roof is being torn off, old shingles and new bundles can be on the roof at once. An old shingle layer weighs roughly 2 to 3 pounds per square foot of roof. Keep the debris moving, and do not stage new bundles on an area that is still carrying a heavy load of tear-off. See how to tear off a shingle roof.

Common Mistakes

  • Stacking a full pallet in one place. This is how trusses crack and decks sag. Spread the load across many rafters.
  • Loading onto a wet or frosty roof. Bundles slide, wrappers tear and the crew is working on a slippery surface.
  • Laying bundles along the slope. They concentrate weight on one rafter and slide more easily.
  • Not blocking bundles on a steep slope. A cleat or a jack takes a minute and prevents a bundle falling onto someone.
  • Loading more than a day's work. Every extra bundle on the roof is weight and risk. Load what you will lay, and keep the rest covered on the ground.
  • Leaving cleats in the roof. Nail holes through the underlayment and shingles become leaks.

When to Call a Professional

If the roof is steep, old, sagging, or framed with light or damaged trusses, let a roofer plan the loading. The same applies when the roof is high or has any section where a fall is possible: a mistake in staging becomes a safety event quickly.

If a supplier offers rooftop loading, ask how they place the bundles and tell them where you want them. The best loading is the one that puts weight where the crew needs it and on framing that can carry it.

Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.

How to Load and Stage Shingle Bundles on a Roof: Questions

How much do a square of shingles weigh?

A square of laminated architectural shingles weighs roughly 200 to 250 pounds, depending on the product. That is about 60 to 80 pounds per bundle at 3 bundles per square. Heavier designer shingles weigh more, and the weight is printed on the wrapper. A whole roof can be several tonnes of material.

Can a roof support the weight of shingles?

A properly framed roof can carry shingles spread across it, but not stacked in one place. Stacks should be small, about 3 to 6 bundles, spread over several rafters or trusses and preferably near bearing walls. An older or damaged roof may carry far less, so inspect the framing before loading.

How do you keep shingles from sliding off a roof?

Lay bundles flat and parallel to the ridge, and block them with a nailed cleat or a roof jack and plank. On steeper roofs, straddle bundles over the ridge. Never stage on a wet or frosty roof, and keep stacks small. A bundle that starts sliding is hard to stop.

Where should I put the shingle bundles on the roof?

Near the ridge on the slope you will shingle first, in small stacks spaced along the ridge and over bearing walls where possible. That keeps the carry short and the load over the stronger framing. Keep them clear of the eave and rake edges, and leave a clear walkway.

How many bundles of shingles can I stack on a roof?

About 3 to 6 bundles in one stack is a sensible limit, with stacks spaced several feet apart. The exact limit depends on the framing, so a heavier stack on an older or lightly built roof is a risk. When you are not sure, use smaller stacks and more of them.

Related Guides

How to Order Shingles and AccessoriesStart from your square count with waste added. Field shingles are usually 3 bundles per square. Then order starter by the linear foot of eave and rake, cap by the linear foot of hips and ridges, underlayment by coverage per roll, about 1-1/2 to 2 pounds of roofing nails per square, and vents by the attic ventilation calculation. Ask the supplier for rooftop delivery and confirm colour and lot numbers.How to Shingle a Steep RoofOn roofs of 8/12 and steeper, work from roof jacks and planks, stay tied off to properly installed anchors, and keep materials blocked or hoisted in small amounts. Fasten with 4 nails as standard and 6 nails plus hand-applied roof cement on very steep slopes, commonly at or above 21/12, per the manufacturer. Move and cut shingles with extra care, and use a lifeline on every steep slope.How to Use a Ladder Hoist to Lift MaterialsA ladder hoist lifts shingle bundles and other materials up to the roof with a motor or engine, running on a ladder or a rail system. Set the ladder at the right angle on firm footing and tie it off, mount the hoist following the manual, stay within the load rating, load bundles evenly, keep people out of the zone below, and control the landing at the top.How to Install Roof Jacks and Toe BoardsRoof jacks are steel brackets nailed through the shingles into the rafters to hold a plank that gives a level working platform on a steep roof. Find the rafters, nail each jack with the fastener count the manufacturer specifies, seat a straight, knot-free plank on the jacks, check it by bouncing your weight, and remove the jacks at the end, sealing every nail hole. They are a platform only and do not replace fall protection.How to Install a Roof AnchorA temporary roof anchor is a steel plate with a D-ring, nailed through the shingles into the rafters near the ridge so a lifeline can clip to it. Find the rafter, fit the anchor in line with the work area, drive every specified fastener into solid framing, and never rely on the sheathing alone. Fall arrest anchors must be rated for at least 22 kN (5,000 lb) unless an engineer designs otherwise.How to Tear Off an Old Shingle RoofTear off a shingle roof by working from the ridge down with a shingle shovel or fork, sliding the tool under the shingles to break the nails loose and throwing debris into a bin below. Remove the underlayment, drip edge and old flashing, pull or hammer flat every leftover nail, and sweep the deck and the ground with a magnet. Strip only what can be covered the same evening.

All Asphalt Shingles guides|The full How-To Library

This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.

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