How to Finish Shingles at the Rake Edge for a Straight, Wind-Tight Gable End
The rake is where the wind gets under a roof first. Drip edge, starter, a clean cut and hand-sealed ends keep it on.
- Advanced
- 2 to 6 hours
- Updated
The short answer
Finish the rake with drip edge over the underlayment, rake starter strip overhanging the edge by about 1/4 to 3/4 inch, and field shingles run past the edge and trimmed to a chalk line so they overhang by the same amount. Keep nails at least 1 inch (and usually 2 inches) in from the cut end, and seal the ends with roof cement, particularly near the eaves and ridge.
The rake is the sloped edge of a gable end: the line where the roof meets the gable wall. It is the most exposed edge on the house, because wind hitting the gable end is forced up over the edge and gets underneath the shingles. Most wind damage to shingle roofs starts at the rake, the eaves and the ridge, and that is why these edges are given extra fastening and sealing.
A good rake edge does four things. It gives water a place to run off (drip edge), it gives the first shingles a base to seal to (starter), it lets the field shingles run past the edge in a clean line, and it locks down the shingle ends against the wind. It also defines the look of the roof from the street, since a wavy rake line shows at once.
This guide covers the rake finish. The eave starter and overhang are in how to install starter strip shingles, and the metal is in how to install drip edge. If the rake board is rotten, see how to repair a rake board first.
Tools
- Hook blade utility knife
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Straightedge
- Roofing coil nailer and compressor
- Tin snips
- Caulking gun for roof cement
- Fall arrest harness and anchor
Materials
- Rake drip edge
- Rake starter strip or manufactured starter
- Roofing nails, 1-1/4 inch galvanized
- Asphalt roof cement
- Underlayment
- Fascia or rake board in sound condition
Safety first
- The rake edge is an open edge with a long drop on a gable end. Tie off before you step near it, and never reach over the edge to trim without an anchor.
- Trim from the roof side, and keep the cut-off piece from sliding down the rake. A falling shingle strip is sharp.
- Do not stand on the rake overhang. It is only as strong as the lookouts behind it.
Step by Step
Step 1: Check the rake board and install drip edge
A rotten or crooked rake board gives a rotten or crooked rake. Replace it before roofing. At the rake, drip edge goes over the underlayment, unlike the eaves, where it goes under. Nail the metal at about 10 to 12 inches along its upper edge and lap joints by at least 2 inches. See how to install drip edge.
The metal should sit tight to the rake board, with no gap that wind or insects can use.
Step 2: Install rake starter
Start at the eave and work up to the ridge, lapping the eave starter, and keep the overhang consistent. The sealant strip bonds the ends of the field shingles, so orient it according to the manufacturer. Nail it about 2 to 3 inches in from the edge, clear of the sealant.
Use a chalk line for a long run, since an overhang that wanders is visible from the ground.
Tip: Some makers allow eave starter to be used at the rake. Others require a separate rake starter. Check the wrapper.
Step 3: Snap the rake trim line
Measure out from the rake board by the overhang and mark at the eave, the middle and the ridge. Snap the line and check that it is straight and parallel to the rake. The line is the guide for every cut.
If you prefer to cut before nailing, use the line to align the end of each shingle as it is laid.
Step 4: Run the field shingles past the line
Letting shingles run long means you trim to a straight line, instead of trying to match each shingle to the edge. Keep the courses aligned to the exposure lines and the offset pattern. See how to lay shingle courses and offsets.
Place the first and last nails of each shingle so they are at least 1 inch, and ideally 2 inches, from the cut line, so the cut does not break through a nail hole.
Step 5: Trim to the line with a hook blade
Cut in one pass if the blade is sharp. See how to cut asphalt shingles cleanly. Take care not to cut into the drip edge, the starter or the underlayment below.
Check the overhang along the length. An overhang that is too long breaks off, and one that is too short lets water run behind the drip edge onto the rake board.
Step 6: Seal the ends against wind
The end of a shingle at the rake has a free corner that wind can lift. A quarter-sized dab of cement under the end of each shingle on the rake, particularly on the first courses at the eave and the last courses at the ridge, holds it. See how to reseal lifted shingles.
Do not use more cement than needed, because a blob can bleed out of the edge and show as a stain.
Step 7: Finish the gable end details
At the ridge, the rake shingles are covered by the cap, so they should be trimmed to the ridge line. At the eave, the rake meets the gutter and fascia, so check that the drip edge and starter sit right. See how to install hip and ridge cap shingles.
Where the rake runs along a wall (a headwall or sidewall) rather than an open gable, it is flashed instead. See how to install step flashing.
Rake Edge Quick Reference
These are the common values. The wrapper and installation instructions govern for each product.
- Drip edge: over the underlayment at the rake, under it at the eave.
- Overhang: about 1/4 to 3/4 inch past the rake drip edge.
- Nail distance from the cut: at least 1 inch, preferably 2 inches.
- Sealing: quarter-sized cement dabs under the end of each shingle at the rake.
- Extra nails: some manufacturers ask for extra nails near the rake in high-wind areas.
Wind Uplift at the Rake
Wind hitting a gable end is pushed up and over the rake, which creates suction on the edge shingles. In the Fraser Valley, winter storms and outflow winds are strong enough to peel rake shingles from an edge that has not been sealed or nailed properly. Well-fastened starter, nails away from the cut, and hand sealing are the cheapest insurance the roof has.
Common Mistakes
- Drip edge under the underlayment at the rake. Water runs behind the metal and onto the rake board.
- Too much overhang. Unsupported shingle ends break off in wind.
- Nails too close to the cut. The cut opens the nail hole and the shingle tears.
- A wavy cut. Without a chalk line the rake line wanders and shows from the street.
- No sealing at the ends. Wind gets under the free corners first.
- Covering a rotten rake board. New shingles do not fix a failing board.
When to Call a Professional
If the rake board is soft or damaged, the gable end is high, or there is a long rake on a steep roof, have a roofer or a carpenter do the work. Rake edges are open edges at height, and they need proper anchors and staging.
If shingles at the rake have lifted or blown off in past storms, have a roofer check the starter, the nailing and the sealing. A repeated failure at one edge means something in the detail is wrong.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.
How to Finish Shingles at the Rake Edge: Questions
How much should shingles overhang the rake?
The common range is about 1/4 to 3/4 inch past the rake drip edge, which lets water drip clear of the rake board without leaving the shingle so far out that wind breaks it. The exact figure is on the shingle manufacturer's installation instructions, and the overhang should be the same along the whole rake.
Does drip edge go over or under underlayment at the rake?
Over. At the rake, the drip edge goes on top of the underlayment, so water running down the roof cannot get under it. At the eaves it is the other way round: drip edge goes on the bare deck, and the underlayment laps over it. The difference is the direction the water is running.
How do you cut shingles straight at the rake?
Let the shingles run long past the edge, snap a chalk line at the overhang distance, and cut along the line from the back of the shingle with a hook blade and a straightedge. Sharp blades and a single steady pass give the cleanest line. Keep the knife clear of the drip edge and underlayment.
How far from the edge should nails be at the rake?
Keep nails at least 1 inch from the cut edge, and preferably about 2 inches, so the cut does not open a nail hole and the shingle does not tear. Nails too close to the edge also hold less. Follow the manufacturer's nailing pattern, and use more nails near the rake if the instructions ask for it.
Do you need to seal shingles at the rake?
It is a good idea and is sometimes required. The end of a shingle at the rake is a free corner that wind can lift. A dab of asphalt roof cement under each end, especially on the first and last few courses, adds holding power, and it is essential in cold weather when the factory sealant has not sealed.
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This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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