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How to Use a Roofing Shovel and Pry Bar for Shingle Tear-Off

Start at the ridge, slide the blade under the nails, push and lift, and keep the debris moving to the drop zone. Tear-off is hard on the body and the footing.

  • Intermediate
  • Varies with the roof
  • Updated

The short answer

A roofing shovel, or shingle fork, is a long-handled tool with a serrated flat blade that slides under shingles and lifts them and their nails off the deck. Start at the ridge, work in rows down the slope, push the blade under the shingles at a low angle, lever up against the nails, and clear debris downslope to a controlled drop zone. Stay tied off and watch your footing on loose debris.

Tear-off is the first step of a reroof, and it sets the quality of everything that follows. A clean, nail-free deck lets the new underlayment lie flat and the new shingles seat properly. A rushed tear-off leaves old nails sticking up, gouged sheathing and debris under the new layer. It is also one of the heavier and riskier jobs on a roof, with a lot of repetitive lifting and a steadily changing surface.

The roofing shovel is the basic tool. It has a long handle and a wide, flat, serrated blade that slides under the shingles and lifts them and their nails off the deck in one motion. A shingle fork does a similar job with tines. Pry bars and a cat's paw handle the stubborn nails, flashing and trim. This guide covers the technique and the safety side. For planning, see how to plan a roof tear-off and how to tear off a shingle roof. Once it is stripped, see how to inspect the roof deck.

Tools

  • Roofing shovel with a serrated blade
  • Shingle fork
  • Flat pry bar
  • Cat's paw nail puller
  • Roofing hammer
  • Magnetic sweeper
  • Harness and lifeline

Materials

  • Tarps for the ground and landscaping
  • Plywood sheets to protect plants and doors
  • Bin or debris chute
  • Heavy gloves and safety glasses
  • Dust mask or respirator

Safety first

  • Tear-off is high-risk work. You stand on a surface that is losing its nails, with debris sliding underfoot. Wear a harness, stay tied off, and keep your line clear of the debris stream.
  • Keep everyone out of the drop zone beneath you. Shingles, nails and debris fall and slide off the roof, and a single nail can go through a boot.
  • Wear safety glasses, gloves and a respirator or dust mask. Old shingles shed dust, granules and fine particles, and some older roofs contain materials that need special handling.
  • Check for power lines, skylights and weak decking before you start, and sweep nails from the ground and the roof as you go.

Step by Step

  1. Step 1: Prepare the site and protect what is below

    Put the bin as close to the eave as you can. Cover plants, patios and window wells with tarps or plywood, and close windows and doors. Mark the drop zone with cones or tape and have someone on the ground to keep others out. See how to plan a roof tear-off.

  2. Step 2: Set up fall protection and check the roof

    Walk the roof, feel for soft spots and mark weak areas. Keep your lifeline on the clear side of the debris path so that it does not get buried or cut by sharp edges. See how to install a roof anchor and how to set up a lifeline and rope grab.

  3. Step 3: Start at the ridge and work in rows

    Starting at the top lets debris slide downhill ahead of you and keeps you working from clean deck above. Take off the ridge cap and any vent, then start the first row just below the ridge. Work across in a row about the width of your reach, which keeps you in control of your footing.

  4. Step 4: Slide the blade under the shingles at a low angle

    A low angle slides under the nails and avoids gouging the deck. Hold the handle low, with your weight behind it. Keep the blade flat rather than pointing down into the sheathing. If you meet a stubborn section, back off and approach from another angle.

  5. Step 5: Lever up against the nails and strip the row

    The serrations grip the shingle and the nail heads, and the lever action lifts the nail. A steady push and lift is more effective and less tiring than a jab. Use your legs and body weight. Work along the row in a rhythm and shove the debris downslope. A shingle fork uses the same motion with tines.

    Watch your footing on loose shingles and granules. Stop and clear the path if debris builds up around your feet.

    Watch out: Loose shingles and granules act like ball bearings. Keep your feet wide and stop to clear them rather than walking on them.

  6. Step 6: Use pry bars and a cat's paw for stubborn nails and flashing

    Old flashing is often nailed and sealed. Work the pry bar under the edge, lift gently and do not cut the deck. A cat's paw drives its claw under a nail head to pull it, while a hammer and a pry bar let you remove others. Pull or hammer flat every nail left in the deck. Leaving them sticking up punctures the new underlayment.

  7. Step 7: Clear debris and sweep the deck as you go

    A clean deck is easier to walk on and lets you see damage. Remove the felt or old underlayment as you go. A magnetic sweeper on the ground and in the lawn catches nails that could puncture tires or feet. Check gutters and valleys for debris and clean them at the end.

  8. Step 8: Work downhill with control and stop for the weather

    As the rows get lower, the drop gets closer and debris moves faster. Keep your feet and your lifeline in line, and slow down near the eave. Do not tear off more roof than you can dry in before the end of the day, see how to dry in a roof overnight. Take breaks, since tired workers make mistakes.

Shovel Versus Fork

A shovel with a solid serrated blade lifts large sections and is good on asphalt shingles. A shingle fork has tines and lets fine debris and dirt fall through, and it works well on heavier or multi-layer roofs and on cedar shakes. Some crews use both. Choose the tool that matches the roof, and keep the edge sharp, since a dull blade needs more force.

Older Roofs and Hazardous Materials

Very old roofing, older underlayments and some flashing or sealant compounds can contain materials that need special handling. If a roof is decades old, has unusual sheet material or has never been inspected, have the material tested before disturbing it. Follow current regulations for handling and disposal, which are set by WorkSafeBC and local authorities.

Common Mistakes

  • Starting at the eave. Debris slides onto you and your line, and the top is harder to reach.
  • Digging the blade into the deck. Gouges sheathing and leaves extra repairs.
  • Leaving nails in the deck. They puncture the new underlayment.
  • Standing on loose debris. Slides underfoot cause falls.
  • Forgetting the drop zone. Falling debris injures people below.
  • Stripping more roof than you can cover. An open roof in rain is a loss.

When to Call a Professional

Tear-off is physically demanding and risky. If the roof is steep, has multiple layers, has skylights and chimneys, or there is any chance the roofing contains hazardous materials, hire a roofer with the crew, the equipment and the disposal arrangements. A crew can usually strip and dry in a roof in a day, which reduces the weather risk.

If you find rotted decking, water damage or a sagging area, stop and see how to inspect the roof deck before going further.

Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Replacement service or the towns we cover.

How to Use a Roofing Shovel for Tear-Off: Questions

What is the best tool for tearing off shingles?

A roofing shovel with a serrated blade, or a shingle fork, is the standard tool. It slides under the shingles and levers up both shingles and nails. A flat pry bar and cat's paw handle flashing, trim and stubborn nails, and a hammer flattens nails that remain. The right tool depends on the roof and the number of layers.

Do you tear off shingles from the top or bottom?

Normally from the top. Starting at the ridge and working down keeps the debris moving away from you, lets you work from clean deck above, and keeps your lifeline off the debris. Tear off only the amount of roof that can be dried in before the end of the day, so the deck is not exposed to rain.

What is the difference between a roofing shovel and a shingle fork?

A roofing shovel has a solid, serrated blade that lifts large sections of shingles and works well on asphalt roofs. A shingle fork has tines that let dirt and small debris fall through, and is useful on thick, multi-layer or shake roofs. Many crews use both.

How do you avoid damaging the deck during tear-off?

Keep the blade low and nearly flat to the deck so it slides under the nails instead of digging in. Use steady leverage rather than jabbing. Use a pry bar gently around flashing and edges, pull or flatten every nail, and stop if the deck feels soft, since rotted sheathing needs to be assessed.

What safety gear do you need for tear-off?

A harness and lifeline tied to a rated anchor, safety glasses, gloves, sturdy soft-soled boots, hearing protection near power tools and a dust mask or respirator. Set up a marked drop zone, keep people out of it, and sweep nails from the roof and the ground to protect feet and tires.

Related Guides

How to Plan a Roof Tear-OffPlan a tear-off by sizing the bin to the roof (about 1 ton of debris per 7 squares of single-layer shingles), placing it under the eave where you can throw or chute straight in, covering landscaping and vents, checking older roofs for asbestos before disturbing them, and only stripping as much roof as can be dried in before nightfall. Check the forecast and warn the neighbours.How to Tear Off an Old Shingle RoofTear off a shingle roof by working from the ridge down with a shingle shovel or fork, sliding the tool under the shingles to break the nails loose and throwing debris into a bin below. Remove the underlayment, drip edge and old flashing, pull or hammer flat every leftover nail, and sweep the deck and the ground with a magnet. Strip only what can be covered the same evening.How to Inspect a Roof Deck for RotInspect a roof deck after tear-off by walking every panel, pressing with a screwdriver and your weight to find soft spots, checking the underside from the attic for stains and daylight, and looking for delaminated plywood, crumbling edges, deflection between rafters and loose or rusted fasteners. Replace any panel that is soft, delaminated or stained through, cutting back to the centre of a rafter.How to Dry In and Tarp a Roof OvernightDry in an open roof by covering bare deck before nightfall with self-adhered membrane or properly lapped underlayment, taped and capped at the edges, or with heavy tarps over the ridge and fastened to lumber strips, not through the tarp alone. Overlap tarps from the ridge down, weigh and batten them against wind, close off open edges and penetrations, and check the forecast before stripping any section.How to Install a Roof AnchorA temporary roof anchor is a steel plate with a D-ring, nailed through the shingles into the rafters near the ridge so a lifeline can clip to it. Find the rafter, fit the anchor in line with the work area, drive every specified fastener into solid framing, and never rely on the sheathing alone. Fall arrest anchors must be rated for at least 22 kN (5,000 lb) unless an engineer designs otherwise.How to Walk a Roof SafelyWalk a roof only when it is dry, free of frost and moss, and in daylight. Wear soft-soled boots with good tread, stay on the lowest pitch you can, keep your weight over your feet and use three points of contact on steeper slopes. Always use fall protection on steep pitches or where a fall could be 3 metres (10 feet) or more.

All Roofing Tools guides|The full How-To Library

This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.

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