How to Walk a Roof Safely: Footwear, Pitch, Moss, Frost and Footing
Choose the day, choose the boots, know the slope and never walk where you cannot stop. Most roof falls are slips, not collapses.
- Intermediate
- Applies to every roof visit
- Updated
The short answer
Walk a roof only when it is dry, free of frost and moss, and in daylight. Wear soft-soled boots with good tread, stay on the lowest pitch you can, keep your weight over your feet and use three points of contact on steeper slopes. Always use fall protection on steep pitches or where a fall could be 3 metres (10 feet) or more.
Roofs are not designed to be walked on, and they become dangerous as soon as the surface changes. Asphalt shingles are gritty when they are dry and new, and greasy when they are wet, mossy or covered in fine needles. Synthetic underlayment, which is used under shingles, can be slick even when it is dry. Metal panels are slippery with a bit of dust or dew. Every one of these is a normal part of a roof, and none of them shows up until your foot goes out.
Good footing is only part of the picture. The other part is knowing when not to walk at all. This guide covers footwear, how steep is too steep, how to move, what to do on the traction problems of moss, frost and underlayment, and when to use fall protection. The equipment pages cover the system itself: installing a roof anchor, fitting a harness and setting up a lifeline.
Tools
- Soft-soled roofing boots with clean tread
- Full body harness and lifeline on steeper roofs
- Roof ladder or roof jacks with a plank on steep slopes
- Stiff broom for sweeping debris
- Knee pads
Materials
- Safety glasses
- Gloves with good grip
- Sun protection and water in summer heat
Safety first
- Fall protection is required in British Columbia where a fall of 3 metres (about 10 feet) or more could occur, and where a shorter fall carries a greater risk of injury than landing on a flat surface. A steep roof or an open edge usually meets that test. Check current WorkSafeBC Part 11.
- Never walk a roof that is wet, frosty, icy, covered in fresh moss, or covered in loose granules and debris. In the Fraser Valley that rules out much of the winter.
- Do not walk on skylights, plastic panels or unsupported sheathing. Treat every unmarked opening as a hole.
- Stay off the roof in strong wind, lightning or poor light.
Step by Step
Step 1: Pick the day and the time
Morning dew is enough to make shingles slick, and frost in the Fraser Valley can last until late morning on north slopes. A roof that looks dry from the ground can still be wet at the shaded side. Wait until the surface is dry to the touch, and check again as you work.
Do not go up if rain is forecast within the next hour, or if wind is gusting strongly. A sudden shower can turn a dry roof slippery in seconds.
Step 2: Wear the right boots
A soft rubber sole grips shingle granules far better than a hard work boot. Check that the tread is not worn smooth or clogged. Boots that have been used on a sealant job or in a muddy yard can have a coating that slides on wet surfaces.
Keep laces tight and tucked in. Wear knee pads if you will be kneeling for long periods, since sore knees lead to bad posture.
Step 3: Get on the roof from the ladder correctly
The transition from ladder to roof is the most dangerous step on any roof job. Use an extension ladder that reaches about 1 metre above the eave and is tied off, see how to set up an extension ladder. Step on the roof with your hand on a side rail, test the footing, then let go.
Step 4: Judge the pitch and decide how to work it
Pitch is stated as rise over run. A 4/12 roof rises 4 inches for every 12 inches of run, and is easy to walk when dry. A 7/12 roof is steep enough that a slip will carry you down the slope, and many roofers consider 7/12 the point at which roof jacks and planks or a roof ladder are needed. A 10/12 or steeper roof is a no-walk surface without full protection.
No pitch is safe without fall protection when the fall could reach 3 metres or more. On steeper slopes, see how to install roof jacks and toe boards for a stable working platform.
Step 5: Move with a low, wide stance and three points of contact
Walk up and down the slope, not across it, and never run. Lean slightly into the slope, not away from it. Place your whole foot flat rather than stepping on the toe or heel. Look where you are stepping, not at your work.
Do not walk backward toward an edge. Keep track of where the eave, the rake and every opening are at all times, and keep your distance from them unless you are clipped in.
Step 6: Deal with moss, frost, needles and wet surfaces
Moss and algae are common under cedars and firs in the Fraser Valley, and a mossy shingle has the grip of wet soap. Wait for the roof to dry, treat or remove the moss from the ground or from a safe position, and do not try to scrape it while standing on it. Fir needles, leaves and loose granules act like ball bearings under the boot.
Frost and ice are not ever safe for walking. If the roof is frosty, wait. There is no boot that solves this.
Watch out: Never spray a cleaning product or pressure wash while standing on a roof. The surface becomes slicker with each pass.
Step 7: Take care on synthetic underlayment and metal panels
Synthetic underlayment is marketed as walkable, and some have a textured surface, but the surface becomes slippery when it is dusty, damp or frosty. Fasten it as you go and avoid walking on it any more than is needed. See how to install synthetic underlayment.
Metal panels are slippery dry and far worse wet. Walk on the flats next to the ribs or use soft-soled boots and a plank. Metal roofs also get hot in summer sun.
Step 8: Stay clear of edges, openings and weak spots
Skylights and plastic panels are not designed to be stood on. Covered openings can be hidden under a tarp or debris. Soft spots in the deck are a sign of rot and are a reason to stop and assess. See how to inspect a roof deck.
Mark openings with flags or cover them with plywood that is secured in place, and use guardrails or a tied-off system near any edge.
Pitch Reference
- Up to 4/12: walkable when dry with soft-soled boots. Fall protection is still required above 3 metres.
- 5/12 to 6/12: walkable with care, slower and with a lifeline. Kneeling and sliding are common causes of injury here.
- 7/12 to 9/12: steep. Use a lifeline and roof jacks with planks or a roof ladder. Do not carry bundles across the slope.
- 10/12 and steeper: very steep. Expect to work from a safe platform or a rope system, and to have someone experienced plan it.
Heat, Cold and Fatigue
Fatigue and heat make footing worse. On a summer afternoon when roofs can reach temperatures far higher than the air, take breaks in the shade and drink water. In cold weather, stiff hands and boots cause slips. See the older site guides on heat and weather safety for more.
Common Mistakes
- Going up too early. Dew and frost make a safe roof slippery, and north slopes stay wet longest.
- Hard-soled boots. Stiff work boots slide on granules. Soft soles grip.
- Walking across the slope instead of up and down, where a slip can take you sideways.
- Stepping backward near an edge or opening without checking what is behind.
- Cleaning moss while standing on it. It gives way and there is nothing to stop you.
- Treating synthetic underlayment as a floor. It is slick with dust or damp and has nothing under it if it is torn.
When to Call a Professional
If the roof is steeper than 6/12, taller than one storey, wet, mossy or frosty, or has weak spots you cannot identify, have a professional roofer look at it. A roofer will bring fall protection and know how to work the slope. A roof inspection from the ground or with a drone can often answer the question without anyone going up.
If you are simply unsure whether you can do it safely, that is an answer. Roof falls are serious, and there is no job that cannot wait for the right conditions.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Repair service or the towns we cover.
How to Walk a Roof Safely: Questions
How steep is too steep to walk on a roof?
It depends on the surface and your experience, but many roofers treat pitches from about 7/12 or 8/12 up as needing roof jacks, planks or a lifeline, and 10/12 as very steep. Wet, mossy or frosty roofs are unsafe at any pitch. Whatever the pitch, fall protection is required where a fall could be 3 metres or more.
What boots are best for walking on a roof?
Soft-soled boots with a flexible, clean tread grip shingles much better than stiff work boots. Soft rubber soles grip granules, and a clean tread holds a wet or dusty surface. Keep the soles free of mud, moss and sealant, and replace boots once the tread is worn smooth.
Is it safe to walk on a wet roof?
No. A wet roof is slippery at almost any pitch, especially with moss, algae, needles or synthetic underlayment. Wait for the surface to dry completely. Morning dew and frost count as wet. If you must work on a damp roof, use fall protection, toe boards or a roof ladder, and expect slower, more careful footing.
Is synthetic underlayment slippery?
It can be. Many synthetic underlayments have a textured surface and are sold as slip resistant, but they become slick when damp, dusty, frosty or sun-baked, and a fall on a steep roof is still a fall. Work from toe boards, roof jacks or a roof ladder, and cover the underlayment with shingles as soon as possible.
Do I need a harness to walk on my own roof?
WorkSafeBC rules apply to workers and employers, not to homeowners, but the physics are the same. Fall protection is recommended on any pitched roof where a fall could be several metres, and is required for workers at 3 metres or more. If you are not able to use a harness safely, it is wiser to have a professional do the work.
Related Guides
All Roof Safety Setup guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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