How to Set Up and Tie Off an Extension Ladder for Roof Access
One foot out for every four up, three feet above the eave, tied at the top and footed on firm level ground. Most roofing falls start at the ladder.
- Intermediate
- 10 to 15 minutes
- Updated
The short answer
Set an extension ladder at a 4 to 1 angle, with the base one foot out for every four feet of height, about 75 degrees. Extend the ladder about 1 metre (3 feet) above the roof edge, put the feet on firm level ground, tie off at the top, and keep three points of contact. Never overreach, and never use the top rungs to step onto the roof.
Every roofing job starts and ends at the ladder, and a large share of roofing injuries happen within a few feet of it. A ladder is a simple tool, but it only works in a narrow envelope: the right angle, level footing, extended enough above the edge, and secured at the top. Outside that envelope it can slide out at the base, kick out at the top or tip sideways.
The 4 to 1 rule gives the angle: the base sits one unit out for every four units of height to the point where the ladder touches the wall. That works out to roughly 75 degrees, and it matches the general requirement in British Columbia that portable ladders be set at about that slope. This guide walks through the setup, the tie-off and the step-off at the top. Once you are on the roof, see how to walk a roof safely and how to install a roof anchor.
Tools
- Extension ladder with a duty rating that covers you and your load
- Ladder stabilizer or standoff
- Levelling feet or a ladder leveller
- Rope or ladder strap for tying off
- Tape measure
- Tool belt or hoist line for carrying materials
Materials
- Nonconductive fibreglass ladder where any power lines are near
- Wood board or plywood for soft ground
- Gutter protection pad for the top of the ladder
Safety first
- WorkSafeBC Part 13 requires a ladder to extend approximately 1 metre (3 feet) above the landing and be secured against movement. Check the current regulation for your situation.
- Look up before you lift. A ladder carried or raised near overhead wires can make contact with energized conductors. Use a nonconductive ladder and keep well clear of lines.
- Do not set a ladder on ice, wet leaves, loose gravel or soft soil without firm footing, and do not lean it on a gutter that cannot carry the load.
- Do not carry loads in your hands while climbing. Use a hoist line or a tool belt so both hands stay free.
Step by Step
Step 1: Choose the ladder and inspect it
The working length of an extension ladder is less than its nominal length, because the sections overlap and the ladder stands at an angle. As a rough guide, a ladder needs to be about 3 to 4 feet longer than the eave height to reach 3 feet above it at the right angle. Check the duty rating label against your weight with gear.
Look for bent or cracked rails, loose rungs, damaged feet, sticky rung locks, frayed rope and any paint or sealant on the rungs. A ladder with a defect is tagged out. A fibreglass ladder should be used near any electrical lines.
Step 2: Choose a spot with firm, level ground
Soft, sloping or icy ground is one of the most common reasons a ladder base slides out. On soil or a wet lawn in a Fraser Valley winter, put a wide board under the feet. On a slope, use levelling feet or an adjustable leveller built for the purpose, not a stack of blocks or bricks.
Do not place a ladder in front of a door that can open into it, unless the door is locked or guarded. Keep it away from power lines, see how to work safely near power lines.
Watch out: Never lean a ladder against a window, a downpipe, a loose gutter or any surface that can move or break.
Step 3: Raise the ladder and extend it above the roof edge
Extend the ladder with both hands, checking that each rung lock engages on the rung with a clear click. Stop extending when at least three rungs, about 3 feet, show above the roof edge. This gives you something to hold as you step on and off.
Do not extend or retract the ladder with a person on it. Do not stand a ladder on a pickup bed, a box or a scaffold to gain height.
Step 4: Set the angle with the 4 to 1 rule
If the contact point is 16 feet up, the base goes 4 feet out. A quick check is to stand at the base with your toes against the feet and reach your arms straight out. Your palms should just touch the rung at shoulder height. Many ladders also have a built-in angle indicator.
A ladder that is too steep can tip backward, and one that is too shallow can slide out at the base or overload the rails. Get the angle right before you climb.
Step 5: Stabilize the top and tie it off
Tie off to a fixed point, not to a gutter or a fascia board that cannot take the load. On a shingle roof, a ladder anchor screwed into the rafter or a stabilizer bar that rests on the wall reduces the chance of a sideways slip. A standoff that spreads the load across the wall keeps the ladder off the gutter, which matters on aluminum gutters that crush easily.
If you cannot tie the top, have someone stand at the base and hold the ladder while you climb and step off. Holding is not a substitute for tying off, but it is better than nothing for a short trip.
Step 6: Climb with three points of contact
Wear clean, dry, dry-soled boots. Mud and sealant on soles make rungs slick. Keep your belt buckle inside the rails and never lean out sideways. If you cannot reach it from the ladder, come down and move it.
Carry materials up with a hoist line or a ladder hoist, see how to use a ladder hoist. Do not climb with bundles of shingles on your shoulder.
Step 7: Step off onto the roof safely
The rails extend above the edge so you can hold them as you step off. Step across sideways at the level of the roof, not over the top of the ladder. On a wet roof, pause and check your footing before you let go of the ladder.
On the way down, do the reverse. Check that the ladder has not moved, and face the ladder until your feet are on the ground.
Step 8: Take the ladder down and store it
Lower with the feet against a fixed point, and avoid swinging it near power lines or windows. Store extension ladders hung horizontally on supports, out of the weather. Wipe off any sealant or paint so the rungs stay grippy.
Ladder Duty Ratings
Ladders carry a duty rating that states the maximum load, including the worker, tools and materials. Ratings are commonly expressed as Grade 1 or heavier for trade use. A ladder bought for household use may not be rated for roofing work with loads. Check the label.
Fraser Valley Notes
Winter roofs in the valley are frequently wet or frosty, and ladders get slick. Check for frost on the rungs in the early morning and wipe mud off boots. Wind funnelling from the Fraser Canyon can catch a ladder that is being carried or extended, so take extra care with long ladders on gusty days.
Common Mistakes
- Wrong angle. Too steep and it tips back. Too shallow and the base slides out.
- Not extending above the roof edge. With no rails to hold at the top, stepping on and off is a fall waiting to happen.
- Leaning on the gutter. Gutters crush, bend and pull away. Use a standoff or a stabilizer.
- Soft or uneven footing. The base sinks or slides and takes the climber with it.
- Carrying loads while climbing. One free hand is not enough. Use a hoist or a hoist line.
- Stepping over the top rung to reach the roof. The top rungs are not a platform.
When to Call a Professional
If the ground is sloped or soft, the eave is higher than a single extension ladder can reach safely, or there are power lines near the work area, bring in someone with access equipment such as a lift or scaffold. Ladders are for access, not for long work, and any job that needs you to stand on one for an extended period needs a better platform.
A second storey roof is a height where a ladder fall can be fatal. If you are not experienced and comfortable at that height, a professional roofer will have the equipment and training to do it safely.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Roof Repair service or the towns we cover.
How to Set Up and Tie Off an Extension Ladder: Questions
What is the 4 to 1 rule for ladders?
The base of a ladder is placed one foot away from the wall for every four feet of height to the top support. That gives an angle of about 75 degrees and is the normal setting for extension ladders. A quick check is to stand with your toes against the feet and your arms straight out. Your palms should just touch the rung at shoulder height.
How far should a ladder extend above the roof?
About 1 metre, which is approximately 3 feet, above the landing or eave, which is what WorkSafeBC requires for ladders used for access. That gives you a hand hold to step on and off safely. At least three rungs should be above the roof edge, and the ladder should also be secured so it cannot move.
How do you tie off an extension ladder?
Fasten the top of the ladder to a solid anchor on the roof or building, with a rope or strap through a rung or around a rail, so it cannot slide sideways or kick out. Use a fixed point that can carry the load, not a loose gutter. If you cannot tie it, have a second person hold the base.
Can you use an extension ladder on uneven ground?
Only with the right levelling equipment. Use ladder levellers or an adjustable base designed for slopes, and make sure the feet are on firm ground. Do not stack blocks, bricks or boards under one leg. If the ground is very uneven or soft, use a different access method such as a lift or scaffold.
What type of ladder is safest near power lines?
A fibreglass ladder, which does not conduct electricity well when it is clean and dry, is the usual choice near power lines. Even so, keep a wide margin from overhead lines, never raise a ladder where it could touch them, and check the current WorkSafeBC limits of approach. Aluminum and wet wood ladders conduct electricity.
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All Roof Safety Setup guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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