How to Install Metal Eave Trim, Drip Edge and Closures
Underlayment over the trim, the right panel overhang, foam closures and a hemmed panel end that drips clear of the fascia.
- Advanced
- 2 to 6 hours for an average house
- Updated
The short answer
Install the eave trim (drip edge) on the fascia before the panels, with underlayment lapped over its upper leg and self-adhered membrane at the edge. Fasten the trim every 12 to 24 inches, set panels to overhang it by about 1 to 2 inches, and fit foam or vented closures under the panels to block wind-driven rain, snow and pests. A hemmed panel end adds a drip edge.
The eave is where a metal roof meets the gutter and the weather. Water running off the panels has to drop cleanly into the gutter without curling back under the panel, and the open ends of the ribs have to be sealed against wind-driven rain, snow, insects and birds. That is the job of the eave trim, the closure strips and the panel end detail, and they are installed before or during the first row of panels.
Mistakes at the eave are the ones owners see: rust streaks at the fascia, water running behind the gutter, rotted fascia boards and wasp nests in the ribs. Most are caused by a wrong underlayment lap, a panel that stops short of the trim, or a missing closure.
Eave detail sits between the underlayment below and the panels above, and it interacts with rake trim at the corner.
Tools
- Sheet metal brake or ready-made trim
- Aviation snips and offset snips
- Hand seamer
- Drill or impact driver
- Chalk line and string line
- Tape measure
- Fall protection equipment
Materials
- Eave trim or drip edge matched to the panel profile
- Self-adhered membrane for the eave
- High-temperature underlayment
- Foam or vented profile closures
- Trim screws or nails as the manual lists
- Butyl sealant tape
- Touch-up paint
Safety first
- The eave is where falls happen. Install guard rails or tie off before working on the edge, and keep materials away from the drop.
- Trim has sharp edges and long lengths that catch wind. Carry on edge and fasten promptly.
- WorkSafeBC requires fall protection at 3 metres (about 10 feet) and wherever a fall of any height could cause serious injury.
Step by Step
Step 1: Check the fascia, deck edge and gutter position
Look for rot at the fascia and replace it before any trim goes on. String a line along the fascia and find the high and low spots, then shim or pack so the trim can go on straight. A wavy fascia makes a wavy drip line.
Decide where the gutter will go relative to the eave. The panel should drip into the gutter, about one third to one half of the way from the back, and the top of the gutter should sit slightly below the plane of the roof so sliding snow passes over it. See snow guards since snow can tear off a gutter on a metal roof.
Step 2: Install the self-adhered membrane and the eave trim
Set the eave trim against the fascia, with its vertical leg covering the top of the fascia, and fasten through the horizontal leg at 12 to 24 inches on centre, or as the manual specifies. Lap trim sections in the direction water flows, commonly 2 to 4 inches, with a bead of sealant between. The key rule for eaves is that the underlayment goes over the trim at the eaves, unlike the rake, where the trim goes over the underlayment.
Run self-adhered membrane so it laps down over the top leg of the eave trim by a couple of inches and is stuck to the deck. Then the main underlayment laps over the membrane as normal. Water that finds its way under the panel runs onto the membrane, over the trim and out.
Step 3: Snap a line and set panel overhang
The overhang throws water off the fascia. Too short and water curls back and runs down the board. Too long and wind flexes and lifts the panel end, and snow loads it. The panel manual has the dimension, typically 1 to 2 inches past the trim.
If the eave is long, use a stop or spacer block so every panel end lands at the same distance. A consistent overhang line is the most visible detail on the finished roof.
Step 4: Fit the closure strips
Closures come in profiles that match the rib shape. Stick them with butyl tape on the trim or the underlayment before each panel is set, so the panel sits on them. On a roof with a ventilated airspace, use vented closures so intake air can enter, with a mesh that blocks insects.
Closures must seal without stopping the panel from expanding and contracting. Do not over-compress them under the panel end, and keep them clear of the eave trim's drip line so they do not wick water.
Step 5: Hem or fold the panel end if the profile calls for it
On many standing seam and snap-lock roofs, the last inch or so of each panel is folded under into a hem. This stiffens the end, hides the raw edge and creates a drip. Use a hand seamer and keep the crease straight and tight. See how to hem, fold and bend metal panel ends.
Exposed-fastener panels more often rely on the trim's drip. If you cut panel ends on site, use shears, not an abrasive wheel, to protect the paint and cut edge. See cutting metal roof panels.
Step 6: Fasten panels near the eave to the right pattern
Screw or clip spacing is typically closer in the first few feet up from the eave, especially on wide roofs and exposed sites. Fasteners too close to the panel end can tear out, so keep to the listed edge distance. See metal roof screws and ProLock snap-lock panels.
Check that the panel end sits firmly on the closure, not propped up by a screw head or by a bowed trim.
Step 7: Connect the gutter and check the drip line
Metal roofs shed snow and ice in sheets. A gutter hung tight under the eave can be ripped off in a slide, so use sturdy hangers, a slight tilt and a location at or below the roof plane. In snow country such as Hope, many roofs use no gutter on the edges where sliding snow is a risk, or protect the gutter with guards above it.
Check that water does not run back under the panel or behind the gutter, and that a drip mark is visible beyond the fascia. Fix any curling by lengthening the overhang or adding a drip bend.
Underlayment Laps: Eave Versus Rake
At the eave, water moves down the roof toward the trim, so the underlayment laps over the eave trim. At the rake, the trim goes over the underlayment, so water running down the roof cannot get under the rake trim. This is the same rule as shingle roofing: the upper layer always laps over the lower. The rake detail is in rake trim.
Fraser Valley Notes
Long wet winters and needle debris collect in the eave and in the gutter below, so vented closures should have screens that can be cleaned. In Hope and up the canyon, wet heavy snow slides off metal in large sheets, so gutters and eave trim need to be strongly fastened and snow guards placed above them.
Common Mistakes
- Laying the underlayment under the eave trim instead of over it, which sends water behind the fascia.
- No overhang, so water curls back and runs down the fascia board.
- Missing closures, leaving ribs open to insects, birds and driven snow.
- Screws too near the panel end, which tear out in wind.
- Installing the trim on a wavy fascia, so the drip line wanders.
- Hanging the gutter tight under the panel, where sliding snow tears it off.
When to Call a Professional
Eave work is on the edge of the roof, so fall protection is critical. If there is no safe anchor point, or the fascia is rotten and needs replacement, hire a roofer. They can also check that the gutter position and snow guards suit the panel and the site.
If the eaves of an existing metal roof leak or show rust streaks, a roofer can tell whether the fix is a trim, closure or underlayment lap.
Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Metal Roofing service or the towns we cover.
How to Install Metal Eave Trim and Closures: Questions
Does the underlayment go over or under the eave trim on a metal roof?
At the eave, the underlayment laps over the top leg of the eave trim, so water that gets under the panel runs onto the underlayment, over the trim and out into the gutter. At the rake it is the other way around, with the trim over the underlayment. Always follow the panel manufacturer's detail.
How far should metal roof panels overhang the eave?
Typically 1 to 2 inches past the eave trim or fascia, so water drips clear and does not curl back under. The exact dimension is in the panel manufacturer's manual. Too short lets water run behind the gutter, and too long can flex in wind or load up with snow.
What are closure strips on a metal roof?
Closure strips are foam or rubber pieces cut to match the panel profile. They fill the gap under the panel at the eave, ridge and sidewalls to keep out wind-driven rain, snow, insects and birds. Vented versions allow air movement on ventilated roofs. They are a separate part of the trim package and need to match the profile.
Do metal roofs need gutters?
Not always, but most houses still use them. Metal sheds water and snow quickly, so gutters need strong hangers, and in heavy snow areas many owners add snow guards or skip gutters on slide zones. The eave trim and panel overhang must direct water into the gutter rather than behind it.
Related Guides
All Metal Roofing guides|The full How-To Library
This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.
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