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How to Allow for Thermal Movement in Metal Roofs: Clips, Fixed Points and Oil Canning

Steel grows about 3/4 inch over 100 feet with a 100 degree swing. Panels need room to move, or they buckle, tick and oil can.

  • Professional
  • Planning step, part of the install
  • Updated

The short answer

Steel expands about 0.0000065 inch per inch per degree Fahrenheit, roughly 3/4 inch over a 100 foot panel with a 100 degree swing, and aluminum moves about twice as much. Allow for it with sliding clips or slotted fasteners, anchor each panel at one fixed point (usually near the ridge), leave gaps at trims and keep panel lengths within the manufacturer's limits to prevent buckling, noise and oil canning.

A metal roof is a long strip of steel that gets hot in the sun and cold on a winter night. Steel expands when heated, and a dark panel in July sunshine can reach more than 70 degrees Celsius at the surface, while a January night in Hope can drop well below freezing. Over a 30 foot panel that is a change in length of about a quarter of an inch or more every day. Over a panel that is fastened at both ends it is a force that has nowhere to go.

That force shows up as ticking and popping at dawn and dusk, buckled panels, elongated holes around screws, tears at trims and oil canning, the visible waviness in the flat of a panel. The whole design of a metal roof is about letting the metal move in a controlled way, and that is why clips slide, fasteners sit in slots and trims overlap rather than seal rigidly.

This guide gives the numbers and the principles. The installation details are in standing seam, ProLock snap-lock panels and exposed-fastener panels.

Tools

  • Tape measure
  • Panel manufacturer's installation manual
  • Thermometer or surface thermometer
  • Calculator

Materials

  • Sliding or floating clips
  • Fixed clips or anchor fasteners
  • Slotted trim and closures
  • Oversize holes or slotted holes for flange fasteners
  • Slip sheet or high-temperature underlayment

Safety first

  • Movement problems are found on the roof, often at eaves and trims. Tie off and never reach over the edge to check a trim.
  • Loosened fasteners at a thermal joint can release a panel edge in wind. Do not remove fasteners from panels without securing them.
  • WorkSafeBC requires fall protection at 3 metres (about 10 feet) and wherever a fall of any height could cause serious injury.

Step by Step

  1. Step 1: Calculate how much the panel will move

    The linear expansion of steel is about 0.0000065 inch per inch per degree Fahrenheit. For a 30 foot panel (360 inches) and a 100 degree Fahrenheit swing, that is 360 times 100 times 0.0000065, or about 0.23 inch. For a 100 foot run it is about 0.78 inch. Aluminum expands about twice as much, and copper somewhat more than steel.

    Use a realistic temperature swing for the panel itself, not the air. A dark panel in full sun can be 30 to 40 degrees Celsius warmer than the air, and a clear winter night can cool it below air temperature. A range of 100 degrees Fahrenheit (about 55 degrees Celsius) is a sensible design number for the Fraser Valley, and colder sites such as Hope have a larger winter range.

    Tip: Darker colours run hotter, and so move more. Light colours reduce the swing.

  2. Step 2: Use the panel length the manufacturer allows

    Manufacturers state a maximum continuous panel length, often 30 to 40 feet for fixed-flange panels, and longer for clipped systems where panels can float. Beyond the limit, the roof needs a mid-slope lap or a transverse joint designed to allow movement. See how to measure and order for planning lengths.

    Panels that are long enough to need a splice also need a stepped or expansion joint at the lap. Sealing a lap solid with rivets traps the movement. Follow the manual for the lap dimension and sealing.

  3. Step 3: Anchor each panel at one fixed point only

    A panel should be held at one point and free everywhere else. On clipped standing seam, that is one or two fixed clips near the ridge, with sliding clips down the slope, so the panel grows and shrinks from the top toward the eave. On a fixed-flange snap-lock panel, the flange screws are placed in the centre of their slots, so the panel can move a little either way.

    A panel fixed at both eave and ridge is trapped. Its expansion has nowhere to go and it buckles, rips at the fasteners or pushes the trim off. Check that the eave clips are sliding, that no fixed clips were used by mistake and that the trims do not clamp the panel ends.

  4. Step 4: Use sliding clips and slotted fasteners correctly

    Sliding clips have a slotted tab or a hook that holds the seam but lets the panel slide. They must not be overdriven, because the clip screw head must not clamp the tab. Keep the screw snug with a clutch-controlled driver. On flange panels, fasteners go centred in the slot and are snug. Off-centre or overdriven screws pin the panel. See metal roof screws.

    A slip sheet or smooth high-temperature underlayment lets the panel slide without gripping. See underlayment for metal roofs.

    Watch out: Clip screws driven tight are the most common cause of trapped panels. The clip should slide with a finger.

  5. Step 5: Leave room at trims, closures and penetrations

    Panel ends at the eave and ridge need a gap, often about 1/2 to 1 inch at the ridge, so the panel can grow without pushing the cap. Closures should be compressible. Wall trims should overlap the panel without pinching it. A pipe or curb in the path of a long panel anchors it at that point and forces movement elsewhere. See ridge and hip caps and wall flashing.

    Sealant should be flexible and in a joint that can stretch. A rigid rivet across a lap does not allow sliding.

  6. Step 6: Identify and reduce oil canning

    Oil canning is a cosmetic waviness in the flat of a panel, caused by stresses in the metal released when it is formed, installed or heated. It is not a structural or leak problem, and manufacturers normally exclude it from warranty. Causes include thin gauge, wide flat panels, light angle sun, an uneven deck or strapping, overdriven clips and panels pinned by fasteners.

    To reduce it, use 24 gauge instead of 26, choose panels with striations or ribs in the flat, build a flat deck, avoid overdriving fasteners and allow free movement. Darker colours and high gloss show it more than lighter and matte finishes. Careful handling matters too, since a panel that is kinked during carrying will be wavy forever.

Noise and Ticking

Ticking, popping and creaking at sunrise and sunset means a panel is sliding or a fastener is rubbing. It is annoying but usually harmless. Common fixes are a slip sheet, loosened clip screws, and a gap at the trims. A panel that makes loud bangs may be pinned at both ends and worth a closer look.

Fraser Valley Notes

Summer heat in the 30s Celsius in Chilliwack and Abbotsford pushes dark panels far above air temperature. Winter cold at Hope and up the canyon adds a wide swing in the same year. Plan for the full range, and keep panel lengths to the manufacturer's limit on exposed roofs. See snow guards for how sliding snow interacts with panel and clip loads.

Common Mistakes

  • Fixing a panel at both ends, which buckles or tears it.
  • Overdriving clip or flange screws, so the panel cannot slide.
  • Using panels longer than the manufacturer allows for the profile.
  • Rigid sealant or rivets across a lap that should slide.
  • Tight trims that pinch the panel end.
  • Ignoring the colour effect: dark panels move more.
  • Treating oil canning as a leak problem rather than a cosmetic one.

When to Call a Professional

Thermal movement is a design issue. If your roof has long panel runs, dark colours, noisy ticking or buckling, or panels that have pulled away from trims, a roofer who installs metal regularly can check clip type, fixed points and trims.

Fixing a trapped panel usually means loosening or replacing clips and trims, which is work at the eave and ridge edges. Use a contractor if you cannot tie off safely.

Fraser Roofing does free roof inspections across the Fraser Valley, from Hope to Abbotsford. See our Metal Roofing service or the towns we cover.

How to Allow for Thermal Movement in Metal Roofs: Questions

How much does a metal roof expand and contract?

Steel moves about 0.0000065 inch per inch per degree Fahrenheit, so a 30 foot panel with a 100 degree swing changes by about a quarter of an inch, and a 100 foot panel by about three quarters of an inch. Aluminum moves roughly twice as much. The panel, colour and site temperature range decide the actual movement.

What causes oil canning in metal roofs?

Oil canning is visible waviness in the flat of a panel. Causes include thin gauge, wide flat panels, uneven decking or strapping, overdriven clips that pin the panel, stresses from roll forming and low-angle sunlight that shows the ripples. It is cosmetic and not a leak, but it is hard to fix after installation, so prevention is the approach.

Why does my metal roof make noise in the morning and evening?

Ticking and popping happen as the panels warm and cool and slide over clips, fasteners and the underlayment. It is usually normal. A slip sheet, properly loosened clips and gaps at trims reduce it. Loud bangs can mean a panel is trapped at both ends and worth having checked.

What is a sliding clip on a metal roof?

A sliding or floating clip holds a standing seam panel to the deck but lets the panel move along its length as the metal expands and contracts. The panel is anchored at one fixed point, usually near the ridge, and slides on the clips below it. Clip screws must not be overdriven or the clip cannot slide.

How long can a metal roof panel be?

It depends on the profile and the system. Fixed-flange panels are often limited to about 30 to 40 feet, while clipped standing seam panels that float can be longer, sometimes 50 feet or more with the right clips. Beyond the limit the roof needs a designed mid-slope joint. The manufacturer's manual gives the maximum for each product.

Related Guides

How to Install Standing Seam Metal RoofingStanding seam roofing is installed by squaring the first panel to the eave and rake, fastening concealed clips to the deck at the manufacturer's spacing, and engaging each panel's female seam over the previous male seam. Seams are then crimped with a hand or electric seamer. One row of clips near the ridge holds the panel, and the rest float so the panel can move with temperature.How to Install ProLock Snap-Lock PanelsProLock, sold as Pro-Lock by Domtek Building Products, is a concealed-fastener snap-lock panel in 12 or 16 inch widths, 24 or 26 gauge, for slopes of 3/12 or steeper over solid plywood and synthetic underlayment. Install the first panel square, screw through its flange, snap the next panel's lock over it, and repeat, without clips. Confirm details in the ProLock installation manual.How to Install Exposed-Fastener Metal PanelsExposed-fastener panels are laid from the end of the roof away from the prevailing wind, with each panel's overlapping rib lapped over the previous one and a bead of sealant tape between. Panels are screwed through the flat into purlins or deck with rubber-washered screws at the eave, ridge, laps and at intervals across the field, and foam closures seal the eave and ridge. Start square, because errors repeat.Metal Roof Screws: Pattern, Torque and WashersMetal roof screws are coated self-drilling or self-tapping fasteners with an EPDM or neoprene washer, usually number 10 or 12, long enough to reach 1 inch into wood. They go in the flat or rib as the panel manual shows, with extra screws at eaves, ridge and laps. Drive until the washer is slightly compressed and bulges evenly, not crushed, and replace any stripped screw with an oversize one.Underlayment for Metal RoofsMetal roofs need underlayment rated for high temperature because dark panels in summer sun run far hotter than the air, commonly 70 degrees Celsius or more, and heat the layer directly beneath them. Install self-adhered ice and water shield at eaves, valleys and penetrations, then cover the rest with a high-temperature synthetic or self-adhered membrane, lapped shingle-style, before panels go on. A vented air gap or slip sheet reduces condensation and abrasion.How to Measure and Order Metal Roof PanelsTo order metal roofing, measure each roof plane's eave-to-ridge length and width, divide the width by the panel's coverage width (not its overall width) and round up to get the panel count, then add the eave overhang and ridge allowance to the length. List trims separately by linear foot: eave, rake, ridge, hip, valley and wall flashings. Panels are cut to length, so order waste mainly in trim.How to Install Snow Guards on a Metal RoofSnow guards hold snow on a metal roof so it melts off gradually instead of releasing in a sheet. Place rows above doors, walkways, gutters and lower roofs, starting near the eave about 12 to 24 inches up, and stagger guards in rows spaced roughly 4 to 8 feet apart up the slope. Use clamp-on guards on standing seam and fasten guards through ribs on exposed-fastener panels.

All Metal Roofing guides|The full How-To Library

This guide is general education. Always follow the product manufacturer's installation instructions, the BC Building Code and WorkSafeBC requirements, which take priority over anything written here.

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